Damasko is a watchmaker that comes up often in our articles and discussions. Before we use another vague reference to them in an article, we’ll add some context today. Germany is known for their over-engineering and simple aesthetics, and Damasko displays those qualities in spades. Founded by Konrad Damasko, a metallurgist, in the 90s, Damasko has become one of the most vertically integrated watchmakers in the world.
In fact, it’s not a stretch to say they are, pound-for-pound, the most impressive watchmaker out there right now. Sure, Rolex and Seiko make nearly all of their components in-house, but their production volume is in the millions per year. Damasko puts out only a few thousand watches annually, so to manufacture about 90% of the components (this is specific to references housing their in-house movements) in-house it astounding. What’s more, their pricing is downright hard to believe – everything is under $5,000! If we’re talking non-manufacture movements, prices dip below $2,000 and $3,000, plus or minus a chronograph complication.
For the majority of their existence, Damasko has used ETA movements housed inside their ice-hardened cases, and the in-house movements are a more recent development. We’re hoping the move to manufacture calibers brings well-deserved attention to the family-owned company. Obviously, it would help their business, but more importantly, shed light on a watchmaker putting together serious manufacture watches at reasonable prices. It can be done, people!
To launch their in-house caliber achievement, Damasko released three new references: the DK10 (DK11 has a white dial), DK14 (DK15 is the white dial), and the DK100 (DK101 has a grey dial). We’re very excited about each of these releases, as well as the (fingers crossed) upcoming release of the DC86.
DK10/11 and DK14/15($3,935)
Between the two new movements, the primary difference is that the caliber A 35-1 is a self-winder, which you’ll find in the DK10/11 and DK14/15. One of the features Damasko can claim in all of its watches is anti-magnetic capability. What that often involves is a cumbersome Faraday cage to shield the balance assembly – and therefore, a solid caseback. Not the case here; boasting the in-house, magnetic field resistant silicon hairspring, the DK10 and DK14 are able to showoff their movements with exhibition backs. While the movement is rather Spartan in appearance, it’s still always cool to see what’s making your watch ‘tick’.
DK14
So what separates the DK10 and DK14? It’s really only the small seconds register positioned at 9:00 on the DK14, and the red highlights on the DK10, otherwise they’re essentially the same. The rest of the DK10 and DK14 are exactly what you’d expect from Damasko. Their hallmark ice-hardened case (right up there with Bremont’s B-EBE2000 hardening technology, and Sinn’s TEGIMENT technology) leads the charge, complimented by patented gaskets, a bi-directional bezel with ceramic ball ratchet system, and serious lume. Like many of Damasko’s models, the DK10 and DK14 can be had with a black case in addition to the standard steel.
DK100/101 ($4,165)
Damasko DK101
Seeing a Damasko dress watch (at least a modern dress watch) is like seeing your gym teacher dressed up for an awards banquet for the first time – it makes you do a double-take. Admittedly, we were unsure of the design at first, as it doesn’t quite fit in with the rest of their lineup. After some time, however, we’ve come to love its simplicity.
The DK100 houses the hand-wound version of the in-house caliber (H 35), at least seemingly, since many of the stats are very similar to the automatic. Sans rotor always makes for a more attractive view through the caseback, and the DK100 is no exception there. Just as you think Damasko is veering away from their typical tool watches, they still make sure to make the DK100 shockproof, anti-magnetic, and waterproof up to 100m – these guys never quit. What you end up with is a slick timepiece ready for just about anything everyday-life will throw at it. From board shorts to the boardroom, or insert your corny saying of choice.
DC86 ($4,000+ ?)
Damasko DC 86 Chronograph
Okay, so this one doesn’t have an in-house movement, but that’s quite all right with us. Not only is the movement based on the tried-and-true ETA 7750, but Damasko heavily modified it into a Lemania 5100 clone, minus the cheap components. When a watchmaker says they’ve modified stock ETA movements, usually it’s not this extensive.
After lug-holes, our next favorite feature is a central minutes chronograph counter. Why don’t more watchmakers use this? You get 60-minutes of counting, and it’s on the main dial, where it’s more intuitive and legible alongside the sweeping chronograph second hand. Damasko is going the extra step by swapping out standard ETA components with their own, like their silicon hairspring and patented rotor. The big 44-millimeter black case will be quite the presence on the wrist, and will likely elicit thoughts of many past German military chronographs.
Alas, our excitement has so far been tempered by the long wait for release. It’s been almost three years now, but we hear 2014 is the year. If we had to guess, Damasko may be lining up the release of the DC86 with their in-house bracelet. Whatever the case may be, as soon as they come out, we will HAVE to get our hands on an example. Between the in-house movements and this monster, Damasko is full steam ahead in the right direction. (Featured image at the top courtesy of Mike Stuffler)
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