Lessons in Wristory: What’s a Wakmann?

As I scour the vast landscape of the Internet in search of vintage timepieces, I often feel like a paleontologist uprooting earth trying to discover the remains of a beast man has never seen. I’ve traveled around the globe and through 25 “O’s” on Google, deciphering murky pictures and misspelled descriptions with the hopes I may find an elusive “T-Rolex.” More often than not I find only the remains of extinct brands wiped off the earth during the quartz meteor.

At first glance, the scattered remains of brands like Wakmann, Nivada, Minerva, and Le Jour appear to be traps for new collectors or an estate dump. However, after digging into the history and looking below the patina surface, we find value beyond the quoted retail in today’s market.

We’ve all seen eBay sellers listing Wakmann watches as “Breitling” or “Breitling Wakmann” to persuade a new collector – or me at 2:00am after a few glasses of Glenlivet – that we’re getting a rare Breitling that’s been overlooked by foolish collectors. If we peel away the layers of over-hyped descriptions and focus on the meat-and-potatoes of the watch, you’ll find an affordable timepiece with significant commonalities to Swiss luxury icons such as Breitling, Heuer, and Rolex.

As an importer and manufacturer of high quality timepieces, Wakmann Watch Company was founded in New York in 1946, and became known as experts in the world of chronographs and multipurpose timekeeping. At the time, the US had increased duties on imported Swiss watches, which opened the door for Wakmann to partner up with Breitling. Wakmann would receive a batch of nearly complete watches from Switzerland, which would then undergo final assembly before being sold under the Wakmann name. Beyond “re-branded” watches, Wakmann also supplied timekeeping devices for the Armed Forces, U.S. Government, commercial airlines, and radio/television studios as part of their Breitling relationship. Later the company would be purchased by Breitling and absorbed into the larger and more successful umbrella.

Wakmann Triple Calendar — photo courtesy of HQ Milton

The style and craftsmanship of watches from the ‘60s and ‘70s is personally one of my favorite eras in watchmaking, and very few brands provide quality, complication, and design in an affordable package like the Wakmann Triple Date Chronograph. Similar to ETA today, Valjoux supplied a majority of watchmakers with base movements, which were then modified or embellished to each brand’s liking. If we look inside this Wakmann you’ll find a killer Valjoux 72C featuring a chronograph with a full day, date, and month calendar. While it may not be as decorated as its other three register chronograph brothers — like the Heuer Autavia and early versions of the Rolex Daytona — this watch offers sports functionality and classic styling that rivals the best of timepieces without breaking the bank at under $3,000.

Wakmann Regate — photo courtesy of Watches to Buy

If you’re looking to make a splash at the office or the competitive sailing circuit, Wakmann has you covered again with the yachting inspired Regate Chronograph. Poised and ready to turn heads, the Wakmann Regate is a reference from the Wakmann sports collection, which was introduced in the 1970’s. Powered by the Lemania 1341, these Hamptons-ready watches have more features than a Bond watch including a rotating inner bezel, two-register chronograph with a central minute counter, and monthly calendar planner. The watch was offered in stainless steel or gold plated cases with multiple dial variations and handsets. Like the Triple Date, these Regate Chronographs are becoming increasingly hard to find in good condition, and experienced collectors are picking them off whenever — and wherever — they can. If you can find a clean representation around $1,000, you’re digging in the right hole. I’m a sucker for the gold plated version, but I should warn you, be wary of previous owners who’ve taken the case to the polishing wheel, as it will eliminate the original finish and diminish total value. Lastly, check all cases carefully for corrosion before committing to a purchase, as the cases are plated base metal, not stainless steel.

While brands like Wakmann will never compare to the giants that still roam the earth today (Patek, Rolex, Omega, etc.) they offer collectors a glimpse into a time before nearly 1,000 Swiss watch manufactures were wiped from the earth during the Quartz Crisis. Sure, the rare and most sought after watches are out there, but if you’re looking for style with a story, and all at a reasonable price, consider getting a little dirty and digging up a timepiece from an extinct brand like Wakmann.

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