Another holiday weekend is here, and that means I have to incorporate it into the title of our weekly Market Watch(ing). I had a hard time deciding between a Katy Perry lyric and a Will Smith ID4 quote. Katy Perry won, but, “Welcome to Earf,” was a close 2nd. I think we have a pretty slick lineup, but I’ll let you guys be the judges. Bust out the grills, beers, and vintage watches, it’s time to blow shit up.
Neil’s Picks
Panerai PAM236
While most of the Panerai I gravitate towards are classic, non-complicated references, there are a few complicated models that I truly enjoy. At the top of that list is this one. I prefer the PAM250 which comes with the strap, but this PAM236 is the exact same watch but on the bracelet. However, this is actually a better option since the much-revered Panerai bracelet is not common, expensive if purchased by itself, and obviously there are more strap options than any Paneristi can count. As Shane would say, “why not both?” The PAM236 comes in the standard 44mm Luminor size. It’s a great looking 3-register chronograph with 100m water resistance all in stainless steel. This example looks very clean and free from scratches on the bezel – which can be a magnet for those – and comes with box and papers. With all the Panerai references out there, this is one that has lasted the test of time and been around for over a decade. This price is quite good, especially with the bracelet. Now it’s time to save up for 87 different straps.
$4,999
Tudor Black Bay Black
Tudor’s Black Bay is one of the best watches to come out in recent years. The black-bezeled version is my favorite of the multiple references. Although Tudor made improvements this year with their in-house movement, it’s the previous generation that appeals to me more. This version has the vintage inspired dial with the curved lettering at the bottom and the classic Tudor rose. With the new bronze case and in-house movement, I’m glad Tudor keeps making strides to improve and change the Black Bay, but this version is still on the top of my Tudor list. This is a watch that hasn’t lost its luster since the release of the first Black Bay, and at this price, I don’t think there’s a better Swiss diver for the money.
$2,650
Isaac’s Picks
Movado Chronoplan
This week’s hunt for the rare and exciting began as it most usually does, on eBay. Vintage chronographs are typically what I follow on a weekly basis, but since I had been looking into vintage time only Movado late last week, a couple of those made their way into my watch list. One of them stood out in particular – a “Chronoplan” dating back to the 1940’s, featuring dual rotating bezels (presumably to have the added functionality of a second bezel scale), and a retailer signed sector dial, indicating that it was originally sold by Mappin & Webb over in the UK. Oh, and the dial has Breguet numerals, so there’s that.
Although the dial may not be in pristine shape, and the bezel is missing a great deal of the paint detailing, the stainless steel case is more than likely untouched, and looks to be extremely thick. Also worth making note of is the Cal. 75 movement, which is just another one of the great examples of Movado movement design.
$3,500
Rolex Datejust Ref 1601
My first vintage watch was a rare and elegantly configured Ref. 1601 Datejust in stainless steel. While prices have steadily gone up, I still think these watches are an excellent value at their price point, along with the stunningly clean examples that will command a slight premium. A 1969 example that I believe meets that description is currently being offered by Cars and Watches, with a grey/taupe sigma dial, and all luminous plots intact, and naturally aged to a gorgeous yellowed tone.
Additionally, the original box and bracelet are included with the watch. The bracelet is an early, folded link stainless steel jubilee, with a larger coronet on them face of the clasp. The main point here is that the watch has been preserved remarkably well over the years, and as I’m sure you’re aware, it’s not getting any easier to find quality vintage watches on a regular basis. If I needed another Datejust (I don’t – I’ve gone over this with myself before), this could be a contender.
€3,250
Dean’s Picks
Rolex Submariner Ref 5512
Sometimes there’s a watch, and well, that’s the watch for its time and place. My friends, this is one of those watches that validates collecting vintage. The thing just oozes character from the patina, to the fat font insert, and to the matching hands. Boxes have been ticked like a child rolling in the grass in Connecticut. Yes, the case has had a light polish, but I can see past that in this…. case. Now, $12k+ is big money for a matte dial Sub, but I think its justified in this….situation. In a world where slightly above average naked matte 1675s are selling for $9,700, this is a $12k+ watch. Plus, Jacek and Scott are good dudes. Just be sure to email Jacek multiple times to ask him about minute insignificant details about the watch, or just life in general. I hear he loves that.
$12,350
Enicar Sherpa Graph Mark II/b
$10,000-ish
Shane’s Picks
Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Ref 345.0809 “SpeedieMoon”
€9,900
Breitling Navitimer 806
If you do some quick searches across eBay and the forums, you probably won’t have much trouble finding a decent reference 806 Navitimer. However, you’re going to have a helluva time finding one this nice and this early. Only the first couple of years of the 806’s production carried the Valjoux 72, and that’s what we have here. In addition to the rare V72 variant, this one carries the original AOPA logo dial, a sharp case, and overall great aging. Where a nice later 806 goes for under $5K, early V72 examples go for much more. If you were looking for a serious 806 to add to your collection, look no further.
€10,800
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