Market Watch(ing): Mother’s Day Edition

Okay, so this week’s Market Watch(ing) doesn’t really have anything to do with Mother’s Day, but we needed a title. However, the picks do have to do with awesome watches for sale around the web, so that’s something. This week, we have a couple of modern divers mixed in with a swathe of awesome and rare vintage chronographs. Remember, before you pick one of these bad boys up for yourself, don’t forget to treat your mom, grandmother, or wife to some flowers/chocolates/vintage watches.

Neil’s Picks

Helson Skin Diver

A watch doesn’t have to be expensive to be good and just because a watch is expensive, that doesn’t make it good either. Fortunately there are brands out there like Helson that consistently produce good looking quality pieces that don’t break the bank. This Skin Diver is clearly an homage to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and a good one at that. They didn’t try to reinvent the wheel and the package they’ve produced just works. Thanks to its flying saucer size, I would be more inclined to wear this one over the actual modern FF. At 41mm wide, 14mm tall, and 20mm lugs, the proportions are perfect for a dive watch like this. The Miyota movement is one of the better movements in this price range and we’ve seen it field tested in several iterations. The price is well below retail and the watch looks hardly worn so you’re getting a good deal here. This would make a great daily wearer that can take a beating and look great doing it. Most importantly, this thing has lug holes.

€500

Panerai PAM 001Q Luminor Marina Firenze

I have waxed poetic about the Panerai 111 before, and despite my tumultuous relationship with Panerai, my love for that reference hasn’t wavered. If you were considering a PAM 111 but have been wanting something a little more unique, here’s your answer. Mechanically, there isn’t a lot of difference from the PAM 111 with the ETA 6497-1 based movement. What you do get however is 1 of only 99 pieces made that still looks like a classic Panerai and one you’re not likely to see on the wrist of anyone else. It’s not a sandwich dial but the painted raised markers and Pre-V style numbers look like vintage tritium Panerai. This faux patina that is divisive among watch enthusiasts, but this combo works for me. The Firenze models are always in high demand and usually sell out before they even hit the shelves, so it’s rare to see one up for sale. This is the full kit, all at a price comparable to a standard 111. This specific Firenze won’t likely come up for sale for a long time so if you want a 111 that isn’t quite a common 111, scoop this up.

$7,125

Isaac’s Picks

Universal Geneve Compax

Every now and again, the elusive concept of the perfectly balanced collection comes up in conversation, and leads me on a seemingly (read: definitely) inane bout of critical analysis. While I do realize that the notion of a flawless collection is highly relative, I still think that there are a few key watches that a committed collector should make a point of picking up – one of which is a hand-wound chronograph. Now, there are several ways that you can go about filling this horological void, but if you’re looking for something that’s bound to serve you well for many years to come, you can’t go wrong with a conservatively sized vintage piece.

Just a few short days after publishing last week’s edition of Market Watching, I came across a Universal Geneve Compax on eBay that appears to check all the boxes, so to speak. Untouched multi-scale dial? Check. Sharp, 35 mm case? Check. Engraved bridge / inner caseback? Check. Intact lume plots with matching luminous hands? Check. See? I told you it checked all the boxes!

Bid Now

Jardur Bezelmeter

Roughly six months ago, I spotted a vintage chronograph for sale on eBay made by a brand called Jardur. This watch caught my eye because of its gilt dial with red accents — a winning combo in my books — but after doing some more research, I quickly found out that it wasn’t just a pretty face. These “Bezelmeters”, as they’re called, were first produced back in the 1940’s, and as the degree-meter scale on the dial would suggest, they were designed with military and aeronautical applications in mind.

An example of this watch just popped up for sale from Miami-based dealer Menta Watches, and based upon what I’ve seen in the pictures, it looks to be quite nice. In addition evenly aged lume plots on the dial, the bezel is in great shape, and the original lines of the case are still visible, which indicates that minimal polishing work has been done, if any. If you’re on the hunt for something that you don’t see everyday, take note of this piece.

Inquire for Price

Shane’s Picks

Nivada Chronoking Aviator Sea Diver

I’ve got two rare and sporty chronos lined up for you this week, kicking off with a Nivada Chronoking Aviator Sea Diver. I have no idea why Nivada insisted on using what seems like three different model names for this watch, but that’s besides the point. This watch has pretty much everything us vintage chronograph lovers want in a watch, and in top condition. The bezel is clean, the lume on the hands and dial is practically perfect, the dial appears to be flawless, and the case is strong. $3,400 sounds like a lot for a Nivada, but that’s the market today (queue a “deal with it” GIF).

$3,400

Breitling 817 CP-1

We’ve professed our love for Heuer Bund Flybacks and Zenith A. Cairelli CP-2s many times here, and now we have its smaller, rarer little brother. Issued to the Italian military, the Breitling 817 is the predecessor to the CP-2, and looks very nearly like a scaled down Bund. 817s rarely come up for sale, so the market is all over the place on them. This example is in outstanding shape, save for the removal of the caseback engraving, which helps support military provenance. However, as mentioned by the seller, the serial number matches that of one from a recognized list of accepted examples (the list also shows how few are known by collectors). The trustworthy seller is taking offers, which seems to be the new trend with these rare and desirable pieces.

Make an Offer

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