Alright, folks. After some technical difficulties, Market Watch(ing) is ready for a mid-afternoon start (EDT, that is). I think we have a value-packed edition this week, from top to bottom. That’s enough intro, let’s get to the real reason why you’re here.
Neil’s Picks
Omega Seamaster Chronograph 145.029
One thing Omega has going for them is that there is no shortage of unique vintage pieces that look awesome and won’t break the bank. They may not capture the vintage market as feverishly as a certain other brand, but I would argue the sheer variety and value makes them just as strong a competitor. This Seamaster is certainly one of those that keeps pulling me towards vintage Omega. The deep blue dial is slightly faded, providing that great vintage look we’re all after. Standing out with amazing contrast are the orange hands and strong patina on the hour markers. This reference features the manual wind Cal. 861 that we all know and love. Reliability, availability of parts, and ease of maintenance are no worries here. At 39mm, I have no doubt this cushion case will wear perfectly. Even with the exchange rate of GBP to US Dollars, this is still one solid buy. Treat yourself to a vintage Speedmaster that doesn’t look like everyone else’s.
1,850 GBP (about $2,700)
Doxa 300T Sharkhunter
I’m always on the hunt for a Doxa Sub 300T. By always, I mean I look at least once a week trying to decide which organ I can live without to add at least 5 to my collection. They are fairly scarce, especially in good condition. This Sharkhunter is certainly that. The overall condition is amazing from the case, bracelet, hands, and clarity of the dial. Many of these Doxas were used for their intended purpose which means they had a rough life and have the scars to prove it. I am impressed with how well this one has been taken care of. The case has a few dings but nothing unexpected, and the bezel — which really takes a beating on these watches — is in fantastic shape with damn near all the paint in tact. The sharpness of the Synchron logo on the back, crown, and original beads of rice bracelet shows that this watch was worn sparingly and has been treated well throughout its life. The bracelets alone in this condition fetch a decent price. The seller also states that the watch was cleaned and serviced within the last year, which should provide peace of mind. This is certainly one of the cleanest 300T’s I’ve seen in a very long time. Whoever buys this is one lucky person, and I hate you.
$2,700
Isaac’s Picks
Jaeger LeCoultre Chronograph “Cornes de Vache” Lugs
“Cornes de Vache” lugs are commonly known to be best associated with early Vacheron Constantin chronographs like the highly desirable Ref. 6087, but if your budget won’t allow one of those, going the more affordable LeCoultre route is a good choice. This is because at a point in time, both brands produced their own chronographs using the identical, voluptuous case design.
If you haven’t figured it out by now, my first pick for this week is a LeCoultre chronograph in 14K gold featuring Cornes de Vache lugs, and what looks to be a Valjoux 72 movement based upon the spacing of the pushers. While not perfectly clean (like the 18K one Hodinkee sold in their shop a few weeks ago), I still think the honest and original nature of this example is nothing to scoff at. These are rare watches, so to find them for sale at all is something to get excited about. Personally, my favorite detail on this watch is the water-resistant screw-down caseback, which is not commonly seen on yellow gold chronographs.
Bid Now
Longines Tre-Tacche
Longines’ stepped bezel “Tre-Tacche” cases have always stood out to me, thanks to their utilitarian beauty, and seemingly perfect proportions. Unfortunately, finding a nice piece in the 35mm configuration can prove to be much more difficult than finding a smaller version, so when a nice 35mm example comes up for sale, collectors take notice.
The other day, I was browsing through eBay when I came across a triple-singed, 35mm tre-tacche with a stepped bezel, and what I believe to be an original dial. Its case shows signs of wear from use, though it appears to not have been polished extensively over the years, which is always a plus. In addition to the depth of the engravings on the back of the caseback, note the small hallmark on the underside of one lug that reads “41”, which matches the caseback. This is a detail that I have seen on other pieces like it in the past, but they seem to be a bit more scarce. I’ll be watching closely as this auction unfolds over the next 6 days.
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Shane’s Picks
Chopard LUC Classic
Yes, this is a modern piece. Yes, it’s a Chopard. And no, I’ve not lost my mind. I’ve also not lost my eye for a value buy when I see it. Chopard is best known for their ladies watches with diamonds that float around, and their Mille Miglia series. However, they should receive more recognition for their LUC caliber watches. This example here features the LUC Caliber 3.96, which is the slightly less refined Caliber 1.96 (which is one of the best values in high-end watchmaking, in my opinion). And when I say “less refined”, I’m mainly referring to the lack of a swan-neck regulator and the use of a flat hairspring versus a Breguet overcoil hairspring. Other than that, the differences are minor, and this one is still chronometer grade. The watch itself is a great 39.5mm in diameter, and features a fantastic 2-tone sector dial with a classic look. You’re going to be hard-pressed to find a higher quality movement from a respected manufacture for less than this $3,300 price tag.
$3,300
Smiths W10
I’m keeping it simple this week and going with a time-only military issued piece that’s also a great value. Here we have an MoD-issued Smiths W10. It’s not uncommon to find a Smiths W10, but I would say it’s uncommon to find one so clean and well-preserved. This is example is from 1967, and features a very sharp case, functioning hacking seconds, and nice matching patina. What’s more, it was serviced just three months ago. If you don’t have an MWR Forums account already, get on that. This one won’t last long.
£600 ($875, roughly)
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