Spring is in the air (despite the recent surprise snowstorm in the Northeast). It’s warming up, Major League Baseball is back, birds are chirping, and NATO straps will be everywhere. There’s nothing better than the beginning of spring, knowing that the next six months will be a whole lot friendlier to BBQ’ing, golfing, and short-sleeving it with your beloved watches. And just in case you need a new look for the nice weather, Market Watch(ing) will be here week in and week out, starting with this primo selection of watches around the web.
Neil’s Picks
Rolex Explorer II 16550
I’m always on the lookout for a good 16550. They’re probably one of the most under appreciated transitional references from Rolex, but not by me. To me, they are a perfect representation of Rolex’s history and toughness, as well as modern innovation. They may look like a 16570 to the untrained eye but those who know, know. Now, this one has spider webbing on the dial. Normally I’m not a fan of these dials but the cracks on this one are so fine that they seem to blend in unless shown in a specific light at a certain angle. What I’m saying is that I could live with this, which is not something I’ve never said about a spider web dial. The hands and markers halve also won me over. These references are hard to find with matching patina all around but this one nails it in that department as well. It’s not often you can find a vintage Rolex sports model under $4k, so here’s your opportunity.
$3,850
Rolex GMT Master 16750
In continuing with the transitional references, we have here a GMT Master 16750. This was the reference that started my love of vintage GMTs. It has the benefit having the classic look of a 1675 with the added convenience of a quickset date, a handy feature if you don’t wear the same watch everyday. Matte dials are in higher demand than their counterparts with white gold surrounds. They are also more rare, especially with box and papers like we find here. The dial on this piece has perfectly matching patina on the hands and markers. There are some minor marks on the dial but nothing to dissuade buying unless you’re a perfectionist. I don’t mind some imperfections on a vintage watch and these are minimal. The hands have been cleaned of corrosion, which is another common issue with these references. All in all, this is a fine example of a transitional GMT. Gotta love the open 6’s and 9’s – especially on a Jubilee.
$9,799
Isaac’s Picks
Vulcain Cricket Nautical
Nice examples of Vulcain’s Cricket are still among some of the best values in the vintage watch market today. I’ve personally only had the pleasure of hearing a mechanical alarm-equipped wristwatch in action twice (both of which were with lapis lazuli dial Memovox’s – that’s two different examples!), but let me say that it’s a supremely cool complication, and at standard Vulcain prices, they’re hard not to like. Work your way up in the world of vintage Vulcain, and eventually you’ll find yourself on the hunt for the Cricket Nautical – which is no easy task. It’s one of the hardest dive watches to find in clean condition, and upon seeing one, you understand why they are so rare. Every aesthetic detail of this watch works. I’ll leave it at that.
During one of the instances of eBay-fuelled insomnia this week, I came across a 1967 Cricket Nautical in beautiful shape, and it comes complete with a Vulcain box. This example is a later variant of the watch, as indicated by the strong bevels on the lugs, and the larger lume plots on the dial. I think this is a noteworthy example to take a look at if a Cricket Nautical is on your list, but I’ll also say that this piece is being offered at quite the high price. It’s hard to say if the market is there yet.
$18,700
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 570
Lately, I’ve been eyeing Ref. 570 Calatrava’s. This is easily one of the greatest Calatrava references that Patek Philippe has ever produced, which is why it has stood the test of time so well. Thanks to its oversized case, concise dial, and not overly ornate styling, the Ref. 570 is very well suited for modern wrists, and doesn’t look dated in the slightest way. It’s that good. Just imagine what these watches looked like when they were leaving the factory in the 1950’s!
Alessandro Ciani currently has an example for sale in yellow gold, and while it’s a bit hard to see what the dial really looks like in the provided photo, it looks like a nice piece. The lugs appear to have been polished at some point, but not too much, since most of the original lines of the case are still present. This is an honest representation of what a Ref. 570 that was worn should look like.
$16,500
Dean’s Picks
There are some watches that just call to you. For some reason, on these particular watches everything comes together just right and, as watch nerds the world over like to say, “It just speaks to you.” I suppose this is just another way of saying, “When you know, you know”. It’s like a nice mutton, lettuce and tomato sandwich when the mutton is nice and leaaaaan. Nah mean? I assume you do. Well, one of these watches hit the market again. I know this watch. I love this watch. I am writing about it in hopes that one of you fine individuals buys it before I do something crazy.
Rolex Submariner Gilt Dial Ref. 5512
$38,500
Rolex Pre-Daytona Chronograph Ref. 6234
$21,850
Shane’s Picks
Omega Seamaster Bullhead Ref. 146.011
Up first for me is one of the most unique chronographs Omega has produced — which says a lot considering their apparent ’70s chronograph acid trip — the Omega Seamaster Bullhead Ref 146.011. You’ll find these watches with either a brown or golden brown color; the one listed here being the latter. Supposedly, the golden brown dial is the rarer of the two, but that shouldn’t matter because it’s the nicer looking one anyway. I’ve had my hands on this very example and I can tell you it’s in fantastic condition. Note the ultra-clean dial with matching lume plots and hands. The case is in great shape, with typical nicks and scratches for a big, bulky watch of its vintage. The bonus, I would say, is the correct vintage Omega strap that has a cutout for the 6 o’clock crown, and the matching buckle for good measure. I think the price falls smack dab in the middle of what’s fair for a really clean and original example. These don’t come up for sale too often, so if you’re hot for one, this is your answer.
$9,500
Hamilton Royal Australian Navy Chronograph
Ugh, here I go again with my military chronographs. This time it’s an asymmetric Hamilton issued to the Royal Australian Navy (RAN). If you like military-style watches, you can’t not like this one. It’s clean, functional, legible, looks killer on a NATO strap, and has fantastic patina. I believe the size on these is 40mm (someone correct me if I’m wrong), which is perfect by today’s standards. The seller notes the lack of an issue-date engraving on the caseback, but also notes the apparent lack of a polishing. Overall, there aren’t any other red flags, so maybe this example “fell off the truck” before being issued. Either way, for about $3K, it wouldn’t hold me back. It’s funny to say that, not long ago, these watches were about $1,500, but it’s hard to find any vintage chronos of provenance for that kind of short money. This is the new normal!
€2,650
Note: You’ll need an MWR Forums account to view this one.
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