Market Watch(ing): Pre-Basel Shopping

We’re only days away from beginning our Baselworld 2016 coverage, but nothing gets in the way of Market Watch(ing). We’ve got a killer mix of watches for sale around the web this week, from hard-to-find favorites from Baselworld 2015, to rare oversized vintage chronographs, and to underrated modern watches. Get your wallets ready, because Market Watch(ing) is here!

Neil’s Picks

Longines Heritage Diver 1967

Since Basel is right around the corner, I decided to find some of my favorite watches from last year for this week’s Market Watch(ing). I’ll start with the Longines Heritage Diver 1967. This was my runaway favorite from the show, and a year later, I still love it. This was a complete surprise when I saw it. I hadn’t seen any press releases for it prior and literally stumbled upon it. In an environment that can be overwhelming with so many watches, this one shone brighter than most. The red bezel is absolutely stunning and complimented nicely by the black Opaline dial and asymmetric white subdials. Inside is essentially an ETA A08.231, meaning: worry free use for years and easy maintenance when required. This piece is functional as a diving watch as well as providing a second time zone, a combination that is rare these days. For a watch that I could see going for almost double this price, you’re getting a real bargain here. Especially for a brand new watch. Man, I still really want this watch.

$2,497

Bremont Jaguar MkII

I was pleasantly surprised with Bremont’s showing last year. Before the show, I was ready to be critical of what I was about to see, but I was quickly put in my place. I can honestly say I was impressed with all the models I saw from the new Boeing pieces, to the Wright Flyer, and specifically the model here from Bremont’s Jaguar line. This Mk II was my favorite Bremont I saw last year. It is an excellently done two-register chronograph that oozes class. The polished trip-tick case frames the dial wonderfully. I normally don’t like co-branded watches but the Jaguar logo is subtle and I am a fan of the E-Type dash instrument panel inspired layout of the numerals, and red coloring on the second subdial. The exhibition caseback beautifully displays the BE-50AE movement behind the “steering wheel” rotor. Every part of this watch has been executed extremely well. It’s a watch you truly appreciate even more in the flesh. The price here is fair and well below MSRP. Just the fact that there is one available is noteworthy.

$6,550

Isaac Wingold

Tissot Chronograph Cal 33.3

My picks for this week’s roundup come from eBay, naturally. Every once in a while, the vast sea that is eBay will spit out something of note, and this week, it did not disappoint. Take a look at this: a 37mm Tissot chronograph dating back to 1940, complete with a gorgeous black dial, and a smooth bezel. Overall, the piece appears to be in quite nice shape, and judging by the number of freehand engravings on the inside of the caseback, I’d say the movement has been serviced quite a few times in this watch’s 76-year history.

Though most would agree that the main attractions of this particular piece are the multi-scale, glossy black dial, and the oversized 37mm case, you have to admit that the movement beating within the case is pretty easy on the eyes as well. The caliber in question is part of Lemania’s fifteen ligne family (AKA Omega/Tissot 33.3 or Lemania 22XX), and as indicated by the eight teeth on the column wheel, this is the 15TL. With the 15TL, Lemania incorporated a flyback complication into the movement, which collectors certainly do covet today. As an added note, don’t let the absence of an engraved bridge concern you. If you look at the movement, just below the base of the top left lug, you’ll see “Tissot” engraved neatly into the mainplate.

$6,000 or Make Offer

Universal Geneve Polerouter Date

The next piece that I stumbled upon was a Polerouter Date from Universal Geneve. This piece is clean, and I mean clean. Its lugs are thick with case lines still visible, and the outer track on the dial is free of any oxidization. Although some of the lume plots seem to have worn down over the years, the dial is in great condition, with its gilt lettering looking sharp as ever. With all that said, the watch itself is not what made me add this piece to my eBay “Watch List”, but the bracelet, and it’s a good one.

What will secure this watch to its future owner’s wrist, is a Gay Frères “beads of rice” style bracelet, that features the Universal Geneve logo placed horizontally on the clasp. Upon taking a closer at the inside of the clasp, you’ll spot the Gay Frères deer’s head hallmark and the UG hallmark, along with the numbers 3, and 66 — which tells us that it was produced in the third quarter of 1966. Even if the watch doesn’t do it for you, I’d consider buying this piece just for the bracelet, as it would compliment a rare Universal Geneve of the same period quite nicely, in my opinion.

Bid Now

Dean’s Picks

Let’s take a look at two watches this week that really fit the bill for honest vintage watches. The word “patina” gets thrown around a lot; sometimes heavily patinated watches just look like shit, and sometimes they look great. The following two are examples of the latter in my mind.

Eberhard Scafograf 300

€4,800

Universal Geneve Compur ref. 7070

Send inquiries and offers to info@watchistry.com

Shane’s Picks

Wakmann Chrono Aviator

There are some characteristics of vintage watches that do nothing but reel me in: gilt dials, lollipop hands, and bakelight bezels. The last of those three is the relevant trait here, because I’m looking at an awesome Wakmann Chrono Aviator with a blue and grey bakelight bezel. In addition to the bezel, this Wakmann is carrying a reverse panda dial, and a sweet, rectangular chrono seconds hand. The €2,500 asking price sounds strong, and it probably is, but I think any good-looking vintage watch with a bakelight bezel and contrast subdials is going to continue to rise in value.

€2,500

Chopard LUC 1860 Rose Gold

Okay, I’m going rogue from my typical military/sports/vintage watch tendencies with this one. You want bang-for-your-buck? You want serious modern value? Then feast your eyes on this Chopard! Wait. Chopard? Yep, that’s right. You’re looking at one of the best values for a modern dress watch with a mind for haute horology. Carrying the Michel Parmigiani-designed L.U.C. caliber 1.96, the 1860 has the movement, case, and dial finishing of a Patek, but at the price (for 2nd hand, of course) of a mediocre matte dial Sub. Read this in-depth article on what makes the caliber 1.96 so damn awesome. The seller is asking for $6,750, which, if you’re on the lookout for a gold dress watch, your search ends here.

$6,750

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