Market Watch(ing): Common Brands, Uncommon Models

It’s fair to say we’re going with mostly mainstream brands today, but you’d be wrong if you said we picked those brands’ mainstream watches. In other words, you’re not going to find any Submariners, Carreras, or Speedmasters here. Check out what we’ve got in this week’s Market Watch(ing).

Neil’s Picks

Sinn EZM 1

Here’s a watch that every time I see it, I start doing the math in head trying to figure out what I can sell to pick it up. The EZM 1 has developed a cult following and started a line of various mission timers from Sinn, all of which are downright badass. The EZM sets the standard with its shockproof and anti-magnetic movement, wrapped in titanium and water resistant down to 300m. The 40mm case with destro controls means it is sized just right and extremely comfortable. Best of all it features the Lemania 5100 movement in what I think is its cleanest execution. This model is one of the earlier more sought after version with the 3H tritium dial. There is little damage to the case and it still looks pristine. Included are two straps, box and manual and the price is quite good.

$3,500

Omega Flightmaster

The Flightmaster is probably my favorite vintage piece from Omega. While not exactly rare, they’re also not as plentiful as say a Submariner. It’s getting harder to find them in good condition as well. There are some that are turning nice and tropical, some of those however it’s getting more common to see them with completely burned out dials. There can be a fine line between great, good, and bad when it comes to tropical dial. But, I digress. This Flightmaster is a fine example. The patina is even throughout the hands and markers while the orange and blue accents are still bright. There is even the colored markers on the crowns and pushers which commonly get rubbed off. The sub dials set this one apart as well. They have turned tropical with a warm brown color that highlights the contrasts without dominating the dial. It’s a fine watch at a fair price. If you want more info on the reference you can read our article here.

$2,350

Dean’s Picks

Some collectors just get it. Their collections are comprised of watches that just speak to me. Rare or quirky models in excellent condition are generally predominate. These collections are usually widely varied and often contain a mix of brands and time periods. One such collector is Mr. Clymer of Hodinkee fame. Say what you will about the direction his company has taken, the man flat out picks exceptional watches to collect. Another such collector is one @subsea57 who just happens to find some of the rarest and most interesting vintage watches in the game. Yet another guy who seems to be doing it right is Mr. Jason Fried. I mention Mr. Fried because he has 2 watches currently for sale that I’d like to highlight. See, the excellent thing about these kinds of collectors is that they often get bored and end up flipping their exceptional watches, and if you hang around long enough, like a mangy dog at the backdoor of a restaurant, you can snag a tasty discarded morsel or two.

Patek Philippe 3940G

Inquire for Price

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655

Inquire for Price

Isaac’s Picks

Rolex Oyster Date Ref. 6517

In a time when vintage watches are becoming increasingly more and more popular, sought after, and collectible, it’s surprising to see that vintage ladies watches aren’t getting the slightest bit of attention in the grand scheme of things. This could be due to the fact that the bulk of older women’s watches were designed in a somewhat uninspiring way, with many manufacturers rather lazily adding diamonds to a generic looking offering, though I don’t think it should make us lose sight of the true gems that are still out there. This week, I did a little hunting, and quickly came across two pieces that I believe are exactly the kind of watches that we should see getting more praise. First up is a Rolex, and it’s a great one at that.

Coming in at 25mm across, this example of the Ref. 6517 Oyster Date will sit beautifully on a more svelte wrist, and it will be secured beautifully as well by a period correct, riveted Oyster bracelet. On top of that, this watch features a glossy gilt dial, with doorstop indices and dagger hands, much like the Ref. 1601 Datejust that’s on my wrist at the time of writing this. Ultimately, I just think this watch has so many great little details that collectors of men’s vintage Rolex appreciate, and at £1750 it’s hard not to like.

£1,750

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 448

The next watch I found is a Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 448, and it’s currently available on eBay from Philadelphia’s Govberg Jewelers. Now it’s worth noting that this piece isn’t necessarily a women’s watch, and may have been originally intended as a smaller men’s piece back in the 1950’s, but at 28mm wide, I doubt you’ll be seeing many men with one of these on their wrists today. Essentially, this piece is a scaled down version of the more common Calatravas that we see measuring in at 31mm, 33mm and 35mm, though it still maintains the same proportions that we’ve come to adore over the years.

While smaller on the wrist, this piece has some nice heft to it, thanks to the 18K yellow gold case, which I will say has been heavily polished over the years. That aside, there’s still a number of interesting touches to be had with this example of the reference, like the Gubelin-signed, minute marked dial (that is in great shape), along with the “beads of rice” bracelet, that has also been executed in yellow gold.

$9,950 or Make Offer

Heuer Camaro 7220NT

I love Heuer Camaros. I see a lot of silver dial examples with both two and three registers, but it’s the ones with either contrasting subdials, or a splash of color that catch my eye without fail. Here we have the orange 7220NT, which has just enough color to really stand out. The seller purchased it from well known Heuer service expert, Abel Court, and it’s in pristine condition. The lume plots are not only all accounted for, but they match the hands perfectly. The case is crisp as Shake Shack’s new chicken sandwich, and the paint on the orange hands is bold and all there. Looking for offers over $4,500, the seller is definitely looking to get all the money, but I have a feeling he’ll get it.

Taking Offers

Omega Ref. 2576-4 Cal. 343 RG Chronometre

Now, this one won’t look rare at first glance, but trust me, it is. You’re looking at an early Seamaster with a chronometer-grade bumper automatic movement. Omega made a handful of movements which included “RG” in their naming convention, which referred to the more refined regulating system. RG calibers are considered to be some of the best movements Omega has produced. This example has a very clean dial, and an overall fantastic look. The seller stated the bumper doesn’t seem to be moving as freely as it should, but reading through the comments, it sounds like it might be a cheap and easy fix. If that’s true, the $1,200 price tag seems to be on the money.

$1,200 OBO

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