Market Watch(ing): Vintage Divers to Modern Quartz

rolex 1803

It’s Friday, folks, and Market Watch(ing) is back. This week we have another wide variety of pieces from across the web. Hell, we even have a quartz watch in here (say what?). Sit back, and enjoy your depleting bank account.

 

Neil’s Picks

Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 Solar Impulse

 Omega X-33 Solar Impulse
If the Z33 is the futuristic offspring of the Flightmaster, then the X33 Solar Impulse is the crazy hippy 3rd cousin that may or may not be hiding out in Mexico. Yes I know it is a quartz watch, and quite frankly, I don’t care. I’ve said before that if I were to buy a Quartz watch, it would most likely be an X33. When I got my hands on the Solar Impulse version at Baselworld last year, it won me over. Named for Omega’s partnership with the Solar Impulse Project where a solar powered aircraft flew around the globe, the blue, black and green color combinations set it apart from the other Skywalker. Quartz watches certainly have their place, and the functionality of the X33 Solar Impulse is hard to ignore. The 45mm case is titanium with a ceramic bi-directional bezel. As seen recently on the SPECTRE SM300, Omega’s high quality strap featured here is far more than just another NATO. The laundry list of features include a combination of analog hands and digital LCD display that can show three different time zones, chronograph, elapsed mission time, phase elapsed time, three alarms, end of life indicator for the battery, and a perpetual calendar. That does more than my phone. The cal. 5619 movement was developed based on standards set by the European Space Agency and will last 2 years before you have to think about replacing the battery. This is a unique watch that probably isn’t for everyone but it’s sure to stand out and I doubt you’ll come across anyone else with one.

Bulova 666 Divers Chronograph

Bulova Divers Chronograph

Bulova is a brand that often gets overlooked in the vintage market because of their modern watches that are more or less fashion pieces with very little soul. This bodes well for those interested in their vintage pieces because it keeps the demand, and therefore prices, low. This watch is a prime example of that. The Bulova 666 Divers Chronograph is yet another watch that showcases the appeal of the Valjoux 7733 movement. The case is in excellent shape and the matching patina on the hands and markers has aged wonderfully. It is the perfect vintage size of 38mm and the added flair of red on the bezel, the vibrant orange second hand, and white subdials make this a great showcase of ’70s watch design. At under $1,000 you can get yourself a fine and reliable vintage watch that won’t break the bank. To be honest, I also picked this because of the number of the beast on the dial.

$925

 

Isaac’s Picks

Vacheron & Constantin ref. 6307

vacheron constantin phillips

Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls, a special time of the year is upon us. In just a couple of days, some of the main events (Phillips Geneva Watch Auction / Christie’s Important Watches Geneva) of auction season will be taking place, and levels of excitement within both the industry and community couldn’t be higher. Phillips had a tremendously strong sale earlier this year, and after reading over and fully processing their latest catalog, I can confidently say that we’ll see some lots that’ll redefine markets entirely. One market that I believe will see some notable developments after the Phillips sale is ended, is the market for rare and desirable watches from Vacheron Constantin. Though it is still possible to get more relative “bang for your buck” out of certain vintage Vacherons than comparable watches from other brands, I think that collectors are starting to fully notice the wide range of incredible watches that the manufacture put out over the years, some of which I’d be willing to argue are more interesting than a host of Pateks.

While searching through the catalog once more, I came across a time-only piece from Vacheron, featuring a beautiful ivory colored dial – all contained in a 37mm, waterproof, stainless steel case. Dating back to 1960, this watch has a rather contemporary look and feel for its time, plus the way the applied markers contrast with the dial’s surface is just beautiful. Additionally, this example comes complete with its original presentation box, guarantee, and an extract from the archives. There’s a lot of awesomeness to be had in Lot. 127, and I hope those bidding will agree.

Lot 127: 7,000 – 12,000 CHF Estimate

Bovet Mono-Rattrapante

bovet rattrapante

Bovet is a name that has been coming up a lot lately in my never-ending searches for vintage chronographs, and I’ve got no problem with that. They made simply gorgeous watches back in the day, and I’m sure waking up every morning to see that elegant Bovet script on your watch’s dial must really be something. A few weeks back, a 30-minute mono-rattrapante popped up for sale at European Watch Co. in Boston, and for the asking price of $3,200, there’s solid value in this piece.

While the condition of this watch might not be perfect or “mint” by any stretch, the dial is still clean, and the watch maintains its original aesthetic, in an honest way. But with that said, let’s focus on the fact that this is a split seconds chronograph, available for $3,200. The quirky part about this example is the fact that it’s a monopusher. The top pusher handles starting, stopping, and resetting like any other monopusher, but the bottom pusher acts as a “pause button” for recording lap times. After releasing the bottom pusher, the chronograph seconds hand catches up to where the total time is still counting — a very unique way to accomplish the rattrapante complication. I don’t care if you’ve collected watches for decades, or if you’re just getting started with watches, you’ll be able to recognize quickly that this is a lot of watch for your money, that I’d like to think will keep your interest for a good long time. It’s also worth noting that this piece’s mechanics are contained within a 35.2mm case, which is a solid size for an everyday watch. A good buy, by all means.

$3,200

 

Dean’s Picks

Rolex Day-Date President ref 1803

rolex 1803

The Day-Date. El Presidente. A watch that we all know and love which happened to get the Phillips watch treatment recently. Everyone expected massive bumps in pricing, but as it turns out, you can still get a nice, basic example for under $10K. Over on VRM, there is a really nice looking 1803 with a black step dial and gilt printing. Yes, the hands are new replacements, but it has also been recently serviced which is a nice bonus. The case and bracelet look great. Again, you are talking about an 18K solid gold vintage Rolex President for an asking price of $7,800. Shoot, Clay wears one in SOA. How hard is that? At that price I think this is a no-lose situation, and you could even source a pair of vintage hands and still come out on top.

$7,800

 

IWC Aquatimer Vintage Collection

iwc vintage aquatimer

Don’t let the name fool you. This is not a vintage watch, but one of many modern reissues of classic designs that keep coming out of Masion Richemont. Hey, I guess if they sell, keep ’em coming right? Well, these vintage divers with internal bezels are hot. Especially those produced by the likes of the big names like JLC and IWC. I believe the original versions of this watch are trading in the $15-$20k range these days, or at least that’s what the dealers are asking for ’em. A seller on Timezone is offering this Vintage Collection Aquatimer for under $5k, and it’s complete with box-n-papes. While we featured this particular watch a couple of weeks ago, it seems the seller is driving a bit harder at a bargain and has lowered the price by $400. Additionally, there are some new and improved pictures. At that price point you are getting a limited edition piece that looks great, has the vintage feel, but can also usually withstand a dip in the pool. It’s got a sapphire caseback as well, which is a nice touch to add to these modern reissues.

$4,975

Please note, when doing biz with private sellers on the forums, due diligence is required. I don’t know these guys from Adam.

 

Shane’s Picks

Titus Calypsomatic 7986

titus calypsomatic

Raise your hand if you would like a no-crown guard Submariner. Okay, now, raise your hand if you have absolutely no chance of being able to afford one. I don’t have to see all of you to know that 99% of those of you who raised their hand for the former, also raised their hands for the latter. No-crown guard Subs are just stupidly expensive these days. Luckily, there are interesting solutions that pop up occasionally. No, I’m not talking about modern homage watches like Steinhart, MkII, and the ilk, but ones that still allow you to get your vintage on. Here we have a Titus Calypsomatic ref 7986 — a truly vintage alternative to a $25K or more vintage Submariner.

I see similar Titus Calypsomatics from time to time, but they don’t usually have patina this clean and creamy. Not only is this one just about as good as it gets, but it’s also the Calypsomatic reference that looks most similar to a Submariner in its dial and hands. The 7986 gets you very close to a Sub, but leaves enough differentiators in the case and bezel that it doesn’t look like an exact copy. At 38mm, this thing is the perfect vintage diver size, and will be wearable in just about any situation. Bonus: the seller just had the movement overhauled. I have a feeling this will be sold before or shortly after this article publishes. Suck it, one-percenters.

€1,500

 

Bulova 666 Diver

bulova 666 diver

I’m with Neil, there’s a lot to like with vintage Bulova in terms of good looks and good prices. I also went with a vintage Bulova 666 diver, but sans chronograph. I see these simple divers often, but mostly with a black dial, not silver. I love this look, as it reminds me of a dive watch version of the Zenith S58 from last week. This example has great patina, and appears to be in excellent and honest condition. The seller notes that paperwork from a recent service will be provided, which is a big deal when the cost of a service will be roughly 100% of the cost of this watch. In other words, assuming the seller had to pay for service, he’s not making much money at all on the $335 price tag. This is a no-brainer for anyone looking for a quick, guilt-free vintage grab.

$335

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