We’re back again with another wide variety of watches from across the web. It turns out we had chronographs on our mind, because we’re loaded up with them today (except for Dean, who broke the trend). As always, do your homework, grab your wallets, and read up on this week’s Market Watch(ing).
Neil’s Picks
Gold Omega Flightmaster Cal. 910, ref 345.80
I have a lot of love for Flightmasters, and this one reins king. It is getting almost impossible to find the rare gold Flightmaster seen here. Rumor has it there were only about 40 produced. I love that Omega swung for the fences with this one. They took one of their least inconspicuous watches of the era, and what do they do? Make it solid gold of course! This one is absolutely mint as evidenced by the flawless DC-8 on the case back. There’s no corrosion on the second timezone hand which is often one of the most common occurrences of an aged Flightmaster. Even the original crowns and pushers still retain their colored markings which is almost unheard of – even the models in the Omega museum are missing a few. The fact that this Flightmaster comes with its original papers is paramount, especially with a watch this rare. Granted, the seller is asking quite a lot but hey, that’s what the “Best Offer” is for.
$49,999 or Best Offer
Heuer Autavia 1163V
When it comes to a quality vintage racing chronograph at a reasonable price and killer looks, it’s hard to beat the Heuer Autavia. It is emblematic of ’70s motorsport. The 1163V Viceroy is the workhorse of the Autavia line and was produced in the highest numbers. Many examples that come up on the market are “beaters” but the one here is in top condition. The crystal is newer, and the seller is still including the original. Everything else appears to be original. This example has been well taken care of and comes with the reliability of the Heuer Calibre 12 having been serviced recently. The dial and hands are free of corrosion and even the damage prone bezel still looks sharp. I can personally speak to the quality of the Di-Modell Rallye strap and it’s a perfect fit for this watch. The current asking price is very appropriate as well. If you like your vintage watches of the highest quality yet to also have a solid reputation of cigarette promotion, then this Viceroy is the one for you!
$2,700
Isaac’s Picks
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 96
There’s no doubt that Calatrava’s from Patek Phillipe will always be regarded as some of the most elegant dress watches of all time. If you’re looking for your first, a great place to start off at is with the first! Originally introduced in 1932, the Ref. 96 Calatrava sparked what would go on to be one of the brand’s most successful, iconic collections, and would inspire the designs of future pieces as well. One example of this is with the Ref. 5196 Calatrava, that featured a nearly identical aesthetic, albeit a much larger case size to suit the tastes of modern collectors. It’s also worth noting that the Ref. 96 was produced for over 40 years.
While doing my daily search, I came across this particular example from Christie’s Watch Shop. Although it might have what appear to be heavily polished lugs, the double signature on the dial shouldn’t go unnoticed, as it’s one you really don’t see all too often. “Yard” — which can be seen just below the twelve o’clock marker — was an American retailer of Patek Philippe wristwatches, located on Madison Avenue in New York, where countless notable boutiques and horological institutions still exist today. This 96 definitely wasn’t a safe queen, and the patina will be appealing to the right collector.
$6,900
Tiffany & Co. Vintage Chronograph
A few months back, Tiffany & Co. released an all new collection of men’s watches called “CT60”. Truthfully, the release didn’t excite me all that much, but it did make me start looking into the now vintage pieces that heavily influenced the current collection. As many will know, eBay is a terrific place to spot some great finds, and the other day I initially thought I found just that in this vintage Tiffany & Co. signed piece, that bears a striking resemblance to the new, dual-register chronograph.
Its dial is a beautifully muted shade of grey, and perfectly matches the tone of the lume on the hands, though upon closer inspection this watch appears to potentially have a couple big issues. Mainly, the movement has no Tiffany stamping and neither does the caseback, raising the question of just what some of these parts really are, and where they initially came from. Instead, they’re marked with “O. Maire”, which was a US-based firm that imported Swiss movements. It’s still possible they could have assembled the watch for Tiffany, but I’m going to say bid with caution on this one. If anyone has any additional insight, please feel free to let us know your thoughts in the comments section! At least the seller offers a 14-day return policy.
$3,000
Dean’s Picks
Aight ladies and germs, it’s that time of year! Not only are the Mets headed for the post season for the first time since what feels like the Reagan administration, it’s auction season in the watch world again. Anticipation is clearly running high for Only Watch. I mean, is that Tudor gonna pull in 50k? 75k??? I can’t wait to see! This week I want to take a spin thru a few favorites from the upcoming Watches of Knightsbridge auction scheduled for the 12th of September.
Movado Ermerto Travel Watch
Lot 2 & Lot 3
Jaeger-LeCoultre 8 Day Clock
Lot 446 & Lot 447
Hamilton MoD Issued Watch
Lot 64
Rolex Explorer ref 1016 with Box and Papers
Lot 314
Shane’s Picks
Zenith Vintage Chronograph with Box and Papers
Zenith is certainly well known for their chronographs today, specifically ones powered by their legendary El Primero movement. Here we have another “EP” powered watch, except this time it stands for Excelsior Park. Zenith’s relationship with Excelsior Park started in 1938, and continued pretty much up until their El Primero hit the scene. They chose to use EP for their outsourced movements because of the overall quality, and EP’s prominence in the world of chronographs. You can find a fair amount of old Zenith chronographs on the market, but I like this one for its moderately patinated dial, full gold case, the original box and papers, and the downright reasonable price tag. For just over $2K, I can’t believe it hasn’t yet sold. If you like the look of a vintage chrono, and have some spare cash, look no further.
$2,200
Sinn 102
When thinking of my favorite Sinn watch, I usually lean toward the 156. However, after seeing the 102, I might have a new favorite. I’ve seen this one for sale for a really long time, so it’s apparently not the easiest watch to move, but damn it if it isn’t nice to look at. The 102 has a very vintage look to it, and hails from the mid-1980s, long before Sinn had much of a following (at least in the US). Powered by a Valjoux 7733, the 102 has a bi-compax chronograph layout, and it’s housed in a perfect 39mm case. Everything seems to be original on this one, including the bracelet and nicely patinated hands. Frankly, I think this is one of the best looking military-styled chronographs out there. However, as I mentioned, it’s been for sale for a long time, and I think it’s still overpriced. At $4,975, I think a lot of folks will have a tough time making the move for an old Sinn with so many other great choices in that range. Luckily, this listing has a “Best Offer” option, so it’s possible the seller will accept something a bit lower to move it.
$4,975 or Best Offer
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Aaron
Since Isaac works for Christie’s, isn’t his Calatrava pick a bit of a conflict of interest?
Isaac Wingold
Hey there, Aaron! Isaac here. I pick the watches that I pick every single week simply because they’re of interest to me, or because I feel they’d be of interest to our readers. Never has a watch been added due to a request or suggestion from a third party, and I plan on keeping it that way.
Shane Griffin
Aaron,
Thanks for reading. It might be a bit of a stretch to say Isaac works for Christie’s, as he’s only done a couple of freelance articles. I do understand the thought though, but I assure you his picks are un-biased. He receives no monetary benefit from Christie’s outside of his writing, and we are still ad-free here at Wound For Life, with all of our writers contributing out of the passion of watches. We all love watches and want to share what we like from around the web. I hope this answers your question.
Best,
Shane
Chris
That gold Flightmaster. I can only picture it originally being worn by a mustachioed arms dealer as he negotiates the sale of a batch of slightly used Antonovs. That is to say, I really need this.
As much as I love the Sinn, the price seems way over the top. Compare that to the beautiful Autavia or Zenith above it.
Finally, thanks Dean for reminding me of that stupid arachnid piece. I haven’t been so annoyed at the industry since the Ikepod Hourglass debuted.
Neil Wood
Chris,
I think when you purchase that gold Flightmaster, it actually comes with a couple crates of AK-47’s, stinger missiles, and a pair of mirrored aviator sunglasses. You’re on your own with the mustache though.
And yes, the arachnid piece is horrendous.