After traveling to the four corners of the web, we’ve got some very rare watches for you in today’s Market Watch(ing). Get ready for cloisonné dials, ultra rare Submariners, and more. Let’s get to it!
Neil’s Picks
1968 Tudor Submariner 7016/0 Snowflake
There’s just something I love about Tudor Subs. Aside from the classic looks and great value, I also appreciate their uniqueness. Nothing says you specifically didn’t want a Rolex Sub more than wearing a Tudor Sub. It represents not following the crowd. The 7016/0 offered here is a sharp example of the desirable Snowflake. The dial and markers are crisp and the case is in great shape for being almost 50 years old. Yes, the hands are replacement Luminova, which normally I’m not a fan of due to the glaring contrast of the new hands against a dial’s patina. What sets this combination apart, however, is how well these hands match the dial. I would certainly have no issue wearing this Snowflake. If you still can’t get over that, you could always source a handset which I’m sure the gents at H.Q. Milton could help you with.
$5,500
Breitling Transocean Chronograph AB015212
Admittedly, I am not an ardent supporter of any modern Breitling timepieces. The one exception to that rule, however, is the Transocean Chronograph. It is just a beautiful and — rare for a modern Breitling — understated. This Transocean Chronograph is the 43mm version, which is still reasonable by today’s standards and the three-register dial is very well balanced. The mesh bracelet gives it a vintage feel and looks great, which is a hard combination for most watches to pull off. Also of note is that this Transocean feature Breitling’s first in-house movement, the Calibre B 01. At this great price, in addition to the box, papers, and extra strap, this is not likely to last. If you’re going to get a modern Breitling, this is the one to get.
$3,900
Dean’s Picks
Often I find myself writing about funky dive watches and other bric-a-brac from the ’70s. But deep down, for better or worse, I’m truly a vintage Rolex guy. I fought it for a long time, saying things like, “why buy a dive watch you can’t even take in the shower?” or “what idiots are out there paying through the nose for the color of the writing on a dial?” Well, I AM THAT “IDIOTS”!
Today I wanted to talk about a special Sub. No, it’s not some ancient thing from the land before time, but instead a sub produced in the early 1990s (mostly available in 1994, as I have read). I’m talking about the 16618 18k yellow gold Submariner. The kicker about these subs is that they were fitted with lapis lazuli/superluminova dials. I have not been able to unearth the story behind these strange creatures, but what I do know is that they are RARE. If there were more than 100 or so produced I would be shocked. I’ve seen them from time to time on the IG feeds of your local neighborhood Superdealer™. From what I understand, they generally command high five-figures or even six-figures when they do pop-up for sale. So, by comparison, the one up on Chrono24 is a steal at 55k and change, and you get box and papers taboot!
$55,855
Rolex Submariner ref 6200 (!!!)
Okay. For my second watch I present to you one that maybe isn’t a realistic purchase for most of us, but is just so special and shocking to see for sale on the old internet. Usually these things only come up for sale at the Christie’s of the world. I am talking about the Rolex Submariner 6200. While the 6200 isn’t technically the first Sub (That honor goes to the 6204 or 6205 depending on who you ask), it’s the first Sub that really started to take on the look of the Submariner as we know it today. With this reference, Rolex did away with the pencil shaped hands for the familiar Mercedes hands, and increased the size of the crown (to 8mm) and case to improve the depth rating and diving functionality. The fun part of this kingly reference is of course the Explorer 3-6-9 dial, which collectors go absolutely ga-ga over, and this is (probably) the first Sub reference to feature this iconic dial configuration.
Now, I am by no means an expert on these watches, more like a groupie, so I can’t tell you the ‘ins and outs’ of identifying the nuances that you need to know before buying this watch. It’s been widely circulated that this is one of the most frequently faked vintage Rolex dials around, and there is a lot of information on the subject over on the Vintage Rolex Forum. You know, in case you do decide to drop what would certainly be somewhere in the low to mid six-figures for this watch.
Price on Request (obviously)
Isaac’s Picks
Patek Philippe 5077P
A while back, I wrote an article on the craft of creating cloisonné enamel dials, which is a truly amazing art form, to say the least. The skill and devotion that’s involved in making some of these aesthetically captivating pieces is just remarkable, and really makes you appreciate what you’ve got on your wrist. In this game, one of the biggest players is Patek Philippe, and as with just about anything they make, their cloisonné pieces are quite simply ‘epic’. They’ve been made throughout the years in a number of different variants, which certainly makes picking one out somewhat tough, but at the end of the day, they’re all insanely gorgeous.
What we’ve got here, is a cloisonné Calatrava from Patek, known as the “Iris et Lucioles de Nuit” – which translates roughly to “The Iris and Fireflies of Night. Visually, this one is quite stimulating, as the contrast made by the bright pink and green on the black background really helps the dial pop. This specific example is currently available from Matthew Bain, a man who’s been in the industry for quite some time now, that genuinely knows his stuff and then some.
Price on Request
Universal Geneve Compax “Nina Rindt”
It can be argued that the affirmation of this whole UG craze we’re currently experiencing was the purchase of a specific Compax just over a year ago by a friend of the site named Bill. Dubbed the “Nina Rindt”, as a similar example was once worn by the wife of Jochen Rindt in the 1970’s, it’s safe to say that this piece has gained a cult like following within collecting circles. Everything about the watch is nicely executed, down to the movement powering it — the revered Valjoux 72 — which you may know was used in a little watch called the Rolex Daytona.
An example just popped up for sale recently at Menta Watches. While the caseback may have an engraving on it, that’s easily forgivable after seeing the unpolished case and its early applied logo dial in phenomenal condition. Additionally, these pieces are very wearable, which is always nice in a vintage watch. Whether you’re buying to wear it on your wrist, or to toss it in the safe and sell it down the road, I think this piece will definitely do you well.
$19,500
Shane’s Picks
Omega Cosmic ref 2471
First up is a reference I’ve come to love over the last six months or so. I didn’t know a whole lot about the original Omega Cosmic previously, but having come across a few examples in person, I’ve become more and more interested in grabbing one. It’s a great way to fill the void in a collection lacking a triple-date moonphase. The layout isn’t unique – you’ll find the typical month and day below 12:00, with running seconds and moonphase occupying the 6:00 subdial, and a pointer date. However, the caliber 381 provides nice spacing in a small 34mm case. Of course, some folks might think that’s a bit small for today’s tastes, but I think it works for this style of watch.
This particular example seems to be in all original condition, save for maybe the crystal. Redials for this reference are very common, but aging is consistent between the case, dial, moonphase, and markers. What I like most about it is the rose gold case, as I often see them in steel. The dial might have a bit more patina than preferred, but it doesn’t turn me off of the watch. If I were buying it, I’d want to be able to test the pushers, since these old buttons can be troublesome. Lastly, the seller originally posted this at 3150 EUR, but relisted asking for offers. I think it’s a fair ceiling for the watch, and grabbing it for a few hundred less is a solid deal.
Make an Offer
Laco B-Uhr Flieger
For the history buffs out there, this one is for you. Here’s a legitimate Laco B-Uhr Flieger from WWII. I know there are folks who avoid anything with Nazi provenance, but this is truly a piece of history. As we’ve talked about in recent articles, there were five watchmakers who provided pilot’s watches for the Luftwaffe, and Laco was one of them. Looking at modern pilot’s watches, the design impact these type A and B Fliegers have had is undeniable.
I remember seeing this watch listed quite some time ago, and I’m surprised it hasn’t yet sold. The price under $3,000 is quite fair, even considering the additional $400 to $500 needed to replace the crown with a NOS Laco onion crown (which the seller notes in the listing). At 55mm, it’s not very wearable, but I see this as a collector’s item more than anything. It would look right sitting next to other WWII memorabilia, or even a collection of pocket watches. Not seeing a lot of interest on the forums, the seller is accepting offers, as well as just about ready to put it on eBay. If this were an IWC or Lange Flieger in the same condition, the price would probably be tripled, which makes this a steal in my eyes.
$2,800
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