This week on Market Watch(ing), we’re featuring a host of great and rare timepieces. We’re covering all sorts of brands today: JLC, Aquadive, Panerai, VC, and even Mathey-Tissot (who?). Let’s get to it!
Neil’s Picks
Aquadive Model 50
The Model 50 from Aquadive was a milestone in the dive watch world. In 1968, Aquadive filed the patent for what was essentially a depth gauge built into a wrist watch. A pressure gauge on the case is connected to a measuring hand on the dial. Another unique feature of the Model 50 is that it is electronic, but not in traditional sense like quartz. The battery powers the movement and energizes a balance wheel, similar to what a mainspring does in a mechanical watch. This model looks to be from 1975, when Aquadive worked out the kinks with the unique complication and perfected their innovation. What’s more, it looks fantastic for a 40-year old piece. You also get a solid Omega mesh bracelet, a very fitting IsoFrane strap, along with the original vinyl strap. The rarity, look, and sheer cool factor of this watch make it one not to pass up and it’s all a very reasonable price.
$1,600
Panerai Luminor PAM74
It’s no secret that I’m a Panerai fan. Once I finish wading through the plethora of references they have, there are many that I really like. The problem is I can barely pull off a 44mm watch and certainly can’t pull off a 47mm. The Panerai PAM 74 is a watch I like for many reasons but one important one is that it’s 40mm, something quite rare from Officine Panerai. It still retains the classic Luminor case as well as a balanced three register chronograph dial showcasing the Caliber OP IV movement, which is based on a modified Zenith El Primero. This is the same El Primero movement previously used in the Rolex Daytona, and seemingly 80% of Zenith’s lineup. A titanium case also helps the PAM 74 wear quite well on the wrist. These are getting extremely hard to find, especially in this condition. This one comes with all boxes and papers, tools, and two Panerai straps.
$7,480
Dean’s Picks
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Lapis Lazuli
Alright, let’s get down to it; we have a deadline, and i just polished off a bottle of incredible JJ Prum Reisling, so I’m feeling saucy. Let’s start with a watch that is near and dear to my heart. It’s the Lapis Lazuli JLC Memovox that Menta Watches recently put up for sale. This particular watch is special for me because I personally own one of the 5 or so that are purportedly known to exist. Now, I don’t know exactly where Menta got that number, because it certainly isn’t common knowledge and numbers like that are often based on pure speculation. I can assure you, however, that there aren’t a lot of them. Aside from mine, I know of 1 or 2 others, both in private collections.
Now, what is something like this worth? Who is to say? ME, that’s who. A great complete vintage Memovox will set you back $5k and change, depending how much your vintage dealer of choice wants to gouge you, and nice examples can be found for less. This is obviously a special case. The watch in question looks great with what appears to be a sharp case and a clean dial. You will want to confirm that the dial has no cracks or imperfections (it doesn’t appear to have any) as that will crater the price of an ‘exotic dial’ watch such as this. The question remains, is $15k a reasonable price for this piece? My answer to you is: find another one for sale. If you do buy this watch please send me an email because I’d like to buy you a drink and then revel in our exclusivity as we shower our scorn onto the unwashed masses.
$15,000
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox
Price on Inquiry
Isaac’s Picks
Omega Speedmaster Ref. 376.0822 “Holy Grail”
During a recent conversation with a good friend I met through watches, the typical “If you could have any vintage watch” topic came up, and we instantly began to wax-poetic over some of our personal grails. His choice surprised me, and definitely spoke to his extensive horological knowledge. The piece in question, was the “Holy Grail” Speedmaster, Ref. 376.0822 – an extremely rare variant of the Speedy Pro we all know and love.
Essentially, this reference makes use of the classic, turned-lug Speedmaster case, but inside lies an automatic Omega Cal. 1045 movement (which is basically a rebranded Lemania 5100), and a dial that displays the day, date, chronograph with central minutes, and a 24-hour indicator. Its combination of MK. V mechanics and iconic Moon Watch styling really hits the spot. This specific example that just came up for sale isn’t in mint condition, but watches are meant to be worn, right? Additionally, with the way the Speedmaster market has been going lately, picking one of these up might not be such a bad idea.
$5900
Vacheron Constantin Vintage Rectangle
Lately, I’ve developed somewhat of an attraction towards yellow gold dress pieces. Keep in mind, these are a sequence of words I never thought I’d witness myself type. Maybe this is because I’m turning into more of an old man, or maybe it’s just because I’ve spent a little too much time down in Florida over the years. Regardless of what the reasoning behind this is, check out this little dose of awesomeness.
While doing my daily search of what’s out there, I came across this VC, and I must say it’s quite the looker. It’s got a bunch of little touches that produce a pleasing aesthetic, like the seemingly straight lugs that actually have a slightly scrolled side profile, and I’ve always been enamored with Breguet numerals, so you could say this one checks all the boxes for me. Surely, such a piece could make a solid dress-watch addition to one’s collection. Additionally, it looks like it would have a nice wrist presence, which you wouldn’t expect for a watch of its age, and with the way it’s constructed. If you’ll excuse me, I’m off to go freeze my funds.
$3,950
Shane’s Picks
Waltham Chronograph
Since we’ve started this column, I’ve fallen in love with vintage chronographs more so than ever (if that was possible). They can be a pain to maintain, but dammit, I don’t care. I’m going with two chronos today, and first up is a Waltham powered by the Landeron 248. It has what appears to be an original silver dial, as well as a very crisp case. The gentleman selling it seems to be a watchmaker, and claims to have done a complete tear-down of the movement. He even goes as far to show the watch on a timing machine with good stats (high amplitude and accurate s/d). This should put away some of the fear of taking a chance on a vintage chronograph on eBay…some. With one day left on the auction, I think this is a steal ($170 as of posting).
Bid Now
Mathey-Tissot Type XX Flyback
Onto my next vintage chronograph. At first blush, it looks like a knock-off Breguet Type XX Flyback. However, this is the real deal. When Breguet was tasked with making a chronograph for the French Air Force, they contracted the work out to another French watchmaker, Mathey-Tissot. When you see either the military or civilian version of the Type XX, you’re looking at something made by Mathey-Tissot. In addition to the Breguet-branded versions, M-T also decided to make their own civilian Type XX. You’ll find all of the same key characteristics of the Breguet, like the rotating 12-hr bezel, the asymmetrical subdials, and the Valjoux 222. I’ve had hands-on experience with this example (as a member of the European Watch Company team), and I can tell you it’s running strong and in great condition. With a recent example selling for about $9,000 at auction, the price makes sense.
$9,500
by 
gleam
It would probably be good for Shane to disclose that he works for the company selling one of the watches he is recommending.
And by “good” I mean “not insanely terrible and unethical”.
Shane Griffin
I added a parenthetical. For what it’s worth, I don’t get additional monetary benefits from individual watch sales, and my website and EWC are entirely separate entities.
gleam
Thanks for updating it. Regardless of whether you get direct monetary benefit from this specific sale, the conflict of interest is still great enough that the disclosure is warranted. Even if you don’t earn a commission, W4L driving a sale to EWC is likely to have a greater positive effect on your life than W4L driving a sale to Farfo, for example.
The lack of disclosure also makes things look worse for you for anyone who *does* know about your job with EWC. I’m glad to hear you will only gain an indirect benefit if this watch sells to a W4L reader.
Shane Griffin
Fair enough. I didn’t think to, because frankly, I just want to bring awesome watches for sale to my readers. I’m just happy when a reader buys a watch we choose from any site, which has happened a couple of times recently. It’s all about the love of watches for me.