Market Watch(ing): Early Dive Watch Edition

This week on Market Watch(ing), we’re featuring a handful of affordable, awesome pieces, capped off by two serious heavy hitters. Buckle your seatbelts and get your wallets handy, because you’re in for a ride.

Neil’s Picks

IWC 3717

The 3717 has all the trademarks of an IWC Fleiger. It is also one of the last reasonably sized pilot’s watches from IWC which is why I’m partial to it. The versatile 42mm size means it can be worn by just about anyone, something which can’t be said for the more recent oversized references from Schaffhausen. This flieger is one of the few modern ones that looks good on nearly any strap I’ve seen it on from the bracelet, crocodile, Nato, and many others. This is due in large part to its excellent proportions thanks to its manageable diameter, low 14mm profile, and balanced dial layout. This reference features the same ETA 7750 based movement still used in IWC’s newest watches, so accuracy and reliability are nothing to worry about. The model featured here is in great shape and it also comes with the not so easily found bracelet, as opposed to the more common strap. This comes from a reputable seller, all boxes and papers are included, and the price is appropriate for this model. An excellent piece in my book.

$4,375

Heuer Super Autavia Dashboard Chronograph

Now here’s something you don’t come across every day. This Heuer Super Autavia Dashboard Chronograph is a beauty. A true tool chronograph, it features the handwound Valjoux 5 movement and is 57mm wide. The Super Autavia was introduced in 1958 and was the first dashboard-mounted chronograph for use in race cars, aircraft, and boats. It shows the time of day as well as the trip time with its stopwatch function. There is slight discoloration on the hands but overall this is a stunning example. It is located in Dusseldorf, Germany but worry not, the seller is very reputable and I have personally purchased from him. This is a rare and classic piece of Heuer’s racing legacy. Now you just need that vintage Alfa Romeo to mount it on.

3,500 Euro

Dean’s Picks

Enicar Sports Chronograph

So, we here in the good ol’ U. S. of A. are at a little bit of a disadvantage when it comes to vintage European watch buying. The old world, being the point of origin of most these watches, is full of small shops that have been handling them since, well, forever. This week, I stumbled upon one such vintage watchmaker in Chur, Switzerland. Now, I’ve never heard of the place but apparently its one of the oldest towns in the country and I just love the direction this watchmaker is going with his stock. First up is a FUNKY vintage chronographs from a very hot brand right now, Enicar. The watch in question is a sports chronograph from 1973 . The dial is very colorful with red and blue “panda” sub registers and inside beats the legendar Valjoux 72. It’s perfectly sized at 37mm. What more can you ask for? A price under 5k US? you got it.

2,350 CHF

Edox Geoscope GMT Worldtimer

Another watch that Herr Hosang has listed on his site has always been a favorite of mine, and that is the Edox Geoscope GMT world timer. I don’t know what is it about the ’70s, it produced arguably the greatest era of the Grateful Dead, and also these fantastic super colorful eye catching watches. This one in particular would have been right at home at the Fillmore East in 1971. What you have is a world timer with a map of the northern hemisphere on the dial rendered in striking color which is complemented by those bright orange hands that I love so much. Its powered by an ETA 2774 beating at 28800 Bph. The case size is a robust 42mm and, and while I’m not an expert on the watch, the seller does note that it’s all original (as these are often faked/redone).

1,950 CHF

Isaac’s Picks

Enicar Sherpa Guide GMT

To give you guys some context, I’ve been spending the daytime portion of my summer working at a watch retailer here in Toronto. Even though I may be selling modern watches, the topic of the vintage market often comes up in conversation with clients, and there’s always one thing I have to say: the market really makes very little sense, and getting ahead is all about jumping on the next big thing, before it’s the next big thing. Lately, we here at the site have started warming up to a bunch of truly exciting pieces from Enicar, a brand that I think has a very bright future on the vintage scene.

Sherpa is a word you’ll come to know rather quickly when getting familiar with Enicar, and what we have here is the Sherpa Guide GMT. It’s got tons of quirky nuances, a general aesthetic vibe that is very sports oriented, and has a decent wrist presence, so I personally don’t think you can go wrong here. This particular Sherpa may not be in the greatest of shape, in that is has just a couple flaws on the dial, though I still think the overall design and detailing just can’t be found from many other brands, and there’s a lot of potential here.

600 GBP

Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538

Earlier this week, the reference 6538 Submariner came up when I discussed the example once owned by General Chuck Yeager. It really is the “Grand Poobah”, so to speak, of vintage dive watches, or possibly even vintage Rolex in general. For the reference’s lengthy list of notable owners, impact on dive watch design, and beaming of understated awesomeness, it really has gained a legendary status, and collectors are aware of it.

A good friend of mine, that some may know as “@_queuecumber_” on Instagram happens to have two of them (!), and has recently come to decision that it’s time for one to move on. To call this early 4-line 6538 a clean example would be an understatement, and as an added bonus it has provenance. Once owned by Alexander Graham Bell’s relative William Graham Bell, this piece stayed in the family until it came to Q, which is reassuring to those in the market for a watch of this caliber. Who wants to lend me a bunch of interest-free cash?

Send inquiries to: j0hnnycache@yahoo.com

Shane’s Picks

Doxa 300T Sharkhunter Aqua-Lung

I’m going to come right out and say it, this Doxa 300T is a great buy (at the current highest bid, that is). We love Doxa here, and for very good reason. Submariners, Fifty Fathoms, and Seamasters get most of the glory on the vintage dive watch market, but Doxas truly should be right there with them. I mean, freaking Jacques Cousteau wore them, for crying out loud!

Good old eBay has come through again with this vintage 300T Sharkhunter Aqua-Lung. Getting the seal of approval from Cousteau and the US Diver’s Company right on the dial, this 300T appears to be in the exact condition you’d expect from a watch that was likely worn by a real diver. That is to say, it’s not a safe queen — it’s been worn “lovingly”. Even still, it has all of its lume plots, and has what I believe to be the correct Synchron caseback for a 1967 example. I’m not an expert on Doxas, but I think the crown has been replaced, as it should also carry the Synchron logo. With two days left, it’s still sitting under $800, which is a bargain for what I think should be close to a $2,000 watch. One thing, note that the shipping is $100, so factor that into your bidding. Somebody grab this!

Bid Now

Tornek-Rayville TR900 (yup, that’s right)

If the Doxa above is on one end of the market — not too hard to find, but generally under appreciated — then a Tornek-Rayville TR900 is almost on the opposite end. If hen’s teeth are rare, these are like hen’s cavities — they almost don’t exist. Yet, here we have one openly for sale on the MWR Forums by one of the best known vintage Fifty Fathoms guys out there, Jack from International Watch Works (IWW).

The TR900 is an absolute legend. About 1,000 of these were produced by Tornek-Rayville for US Navy Exploded Ordinance Disposal Unit dive teams, and they had to meet the most stringent requirements ever faced by a dive watch. Luckily for Tornek-Rayville, they had a leg up on the competition as they could leverage the already existing Fifty Fathoms platform for the TR900. Of the 1,000 or so examples, many were destroyed by the government (because of the radioactive lume). Logic follows that these watches were worn very hard, and a number of the watches that escaped governmental destruction likely died of natural causes somewhere down the road. This leaves only a few known examples in the world.

Okay, okay, so what’s the price? A hefty $90,000! I knew they were trading above $50,000 recently, but I didn’t realize they were so close to six-figures. With re-lumed markers, I think a buyer could grab this for a little less than the ask. Outside of the re-lume, I think it’s a great example — it even has the original strap! I must say, if you have the cash, this one is worth a look.

$90,000 (you need to sign up for MWR Forums to view)

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