For close to six decades, the Rolex Day Date has been regarded as an international symbol of success and iconic watchmaking, so much so that it’s been notably referred to as the “President” for its association with US presidents. While what is arguably the brand’s flagship model has seen several celebrated incarnations over the years, many would agree that the more recent examples have been somewhat bloated in appearance. That is why this week at Baselworld 2015, we were rather excited to be introduced to the newest one, the Rolex Day Date 40. Although the Day Date II’s successor might not be viewed as a significant update by the masses, we feel as if it represents a step in the right direction for this line, with some horological firepower to boot.
Let’s begin with what you’ll ultimately notice first, the new case. With the oversized watch trend starting to wear off, Rolex took note and decreased the case size to a slightly smaller 40mm (hence the name Day Date 40). Now while a single millimeter is by no means a drastic reduction, the watch wears considerably smaller then it’s predecessor due to a few addition alterations. My main gripe with the Day Date II was that because of the wide, medallion-esque bezel and the drastically tapering lugs, it was a very flashy piece, and definitely didn’t go unnoticed. On the 40, Rolex toned it down through the use of a narrower bezel similar to what’s used in previous 36mm executions. All in all, the watch has a much more understated aesthetic, that we feel is synonymous with some of our favorite President references.
As for the dials, Rolex unveiled various offerings, designed with an obvious attention to detail. Our personal favorites include the blue option with laser-etched crosshatching as seen on the platinum example, along with the silver dial featuring four sections of perpendicular lines offered in white gold. The laser detailing doesn’t necessarily stand out in a bold fashion, but it creates enough of a intricacy to be appreciated. Some may call these dial options “safe”, but you really can’t argue with the timeless nature of the announced variants. Having said that, we’re sure that several more dials will be offered in the near future without an official announcement, as Rolex has been known to do.
In addition to the conservatively designed case and dial options, Rolex rolled out their all-new caliber 3255, that we’ll see within the watch. With 14 new patents, this fully certified movement is certainly no slouch due to it’s increased power reserve of 70 hours, an all new efficient “Chronergy” escapement, and a thinner mainspring barrel. As a result of that last mentioned update, a larger mainspring can now be accommodated, allowing for an increased power reserve. Furthermore, the caliber 3225 could possibly be one of the brand’s most thoughtfully finished movements, with a bevy of beveled edges, and a notable amount of exposed components.
Overall, we’re extremely satisfied with this announcement for the various aforementioned reasons. Rolex is bringing the Day Date line roughly back to the original design that we’ve come to love, and we’re sure the added bonus of an improved caliber won’t go unnoticed by the horologically inclined. Is it the most stand-out announcement of the show thus far? By no means. Is it a sobering and sensible step in the right direction for the line? You bet. Whether or not it matches the vibe of their other Basel releases, that’s for you to decide.
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