Opinion: Favorite Watches of SIHH 2015

Now that SIHH is a wrap, we’ve taken some time to mull over our favorite releases. In general, it’s fair to say each brand brought at least one solid announcement to the table. The one noticeable trend seems to be the avoidance of “boring”, and this is important. With watch nerds popping up all over the place, fewer and fewer potential buyers will be satisfied with yet another iteration of an existing reference with a stock movement inside. The market is asking for progress and uniqueness, and it seems like the brands are starting to listen. So let’s take a look at our favorite watches of SIHH 2015.

Neil Wood

Panerai Radiomir Firenze 3 Days Acciaio

Officine Panerai had 7 new releases at SIHH 2015, all of which were quite superb. Although the Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 Days and Mare Nostrum Titanio are very impressive, it’s the Radiomir Firenze 3 Days Acciaio that takes the cake from the Italian manufacturer, and is most certainly one of my favorite watches from SIHH 2015.

Previous Firenze exclusives have had engraved casebacks and unique dials but Panerai went all out this year to create something truly special. The most impressive feature is the most immediately perceptible: the engraving. It’s simply breathtaking, and even more impressive that it’s all done by hand. The Radiomir is arguably the most attractive Panerai case and lends itself to the beautiful engraving, which is inspired by the architecture in Florence.

Although the 47mm case may seem large (hint: that’s because it is), it’s significant because Panerai’s first watch made in 1936 had a 47mm Radiomir case as well. Luckily, the case isn’t overly thick, there’s no crown guard to increase the visual dimensions, and wire lugs allow it to lay low on the wrist. The manual wind P.3000 Calibre movement is also exclusively Panerai, and is shown off through the sapphire caseback. It features their Incabloc anti-shock device and a power reserve of 3 days. All this lies under a wonderfully executed black sunburst sandwich dial that grabs your eye. Some watches with decorated cases are so distracting to the point you almost forget it’s an instrument used to tell time. Not the case with this one. The engraving is amazing but not overwhelming. The brushed case, darker varnished engraving lines, and vintage hands and markers ensure the look isn’t over the top. It adds to the overall classic beauty of the watch. The Radiomir Firenze 3 Days is the crowning achievement on an overall outstanding showing from Panerai. If you want one you better hurry. Only 99 are being made and as the name would imply it’s only available from the historic Florence boutique. Pricing is 17,000 Euro.

IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar

IWC is another manufacture that had a very strong showing at SIHH 2015. Their stand out to me this year was the Portugieser Annual Calendar, ref 5035. This piece represents a significant milestone for IWC. This is their first annual calendar and it was created with a brand new in-house movement. The annual calendar is an impressive complication and bridges the gap perfectly between those that want more than a day/date and those that don’t want (or can’t afford) a perpetual calendar.

You’ll notice the name has changed from Portuguese to Portugieser, which is how IWC has referred to the line in Europe. The calendar display however is in the traditionally American order. This is done not just because of the design of the movement, but is also a homage to F. A. Jones, IWC’s American founder. The case measures 44mm, which is not a small piece, but not unreasonable either, especially by IWC’s standards, and the lugs curve downward to accommodate smaller wrists. There is a sapphire caseback to show off the new caliber 52850. Thanks to the twin barrels, the new 36 jewel movement has an impressive power reserve of 168 hours. I’ll save you the long division, that’s 7 days. The Annual Calendar is available in 18k red gold with silver plated dial or stainless steel with silver or midnight blue dial, the latter is my favorite combination. Each version comes on a beautiful black alligator strap.

Portugieser Annual Calendar caseback

The dial layout was well executed with the small seconds at 9, the power reserve indicator at 3, and the calendar from 11 to 1 across the top of the dial. All the features are displayed evenly without one aspect overpowering the others. Many watches with similar complications can seem quite cluttered. IWC has managed to make this a very beautiful watch with great legibility and proportions. The Portugieser Annual Calendar is an important step forward for IWC. They came out swinging with more than just a special edition of an existing watch. The development of the new complication and movement shows that they are focusing on innovation and the growth of their brand. Pricing for the steel versions is $24,100 while the 18k gold comes in at $35,700.

Isaac Wingold

Cartier Crash Skeleton

Cartier Crash Skeleton

The Crash from Cartier has always been a piece surrounded by a great deal of unpleasant memories, along with a strong cult following. As the story goes, the Crash was born after a Baignoire was deformed during a fatal car accident, and later made its way back to Cartier. This design has only been reissued a handful of times, now making original vintage examples quite valuable, and arguably the most intriguing and avant-garde buy in vintage dress watches. Although Cartier didn’t technically bring us the all new Crash Skeleton at SIHH, this was the first that we’ve now seen it in the metal. Available in polished platinum, complete with the similarly shaped, skeletonized Calibre 9618 MC at it’s heart, Cartier certainly knocked it out of the park with this one.

Cartier Calibre 9618 MC

Overall, Cartier has done a beautiful job with designing this calibre, along with others in their relatively new realm of modern haute horology. It’s been skeletonized in such a way that the roman numerals themselves are the movement’s bridges, making for a clean and technical design. I also applaud their choice to keep the calibre monochromatic, for the most part. This and its grey crocodile strap give the watch a very modern (dare I say stealthy?) look. On another note, I can definitely see this piece as being a great investment due to the aforementioned rarity of the Crash, and when taking the realized auction prices of similar examples into consideration. With that said, watches to be collected are best purchased out of appreciation or a connection. The Crash Skeleton will be limited to a run of just 67 pieces, at a price that is yet to be announced.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

Lange 1 Lineup

One of my personal favorite watchmakers rolled out some truly great pieces this year at SIHH. Despite the great success and appreciation for the Zeitwerk and Datograph collections, Lange’s flagship model is without a doubt, the Lange 1. For the past 25 years now, the Lange 1 has greatly represented everything German design and watchmaking stands for, with its minimalist appearance and beautifully finished and regulated movement. At SIHH, the Glashütte-based brand unveiled their newly overhauled version of the Lange 1, and while it may not seem like anything has been changed at first glance, this is truly a big update. The watch will now bear the caliber L121.1 – also quite aesthetically similar to its predecessor, but a completely different beast mechanically.

Lange Caliber L121.1

First things first, Lange has added in a considerably larger free-sprung balance wheel, containing a fully in-house designed and manufactured hairspring. Additionally, they have also modified the dual-window date mechanism, such that it will instantly jump to the next day at 12 o’clock, as opposed to the gradual shift of the previous movement. Like last year’s model, we will still see the 72 hour power reserve, made possible by the double barrels. At the end of those 72 hours, the seconds hand will always reset back to zero – a nice touch indicative of Lange’s extreme attention to detail. All of these under-the-hood modifications make for a terrific update, that’ll certainly impress the true connoisseur through the sapphire display caseback. The only somewhat noticeable differences to the watch are the bezel, which we are told is slightly thinner than a 2014 example, and a marginally different font choice, but at the end of the day I highly doubt it’ll be discernible. As soon as the updated pieces hit the boutiques, you’ll have your choice of yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum, coming in at 29,800 Euros for either of the gold variants and 42,300 Euros in platinum.

Shane Griffin

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Chronograph

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Chronograph

Vacheron’s Harmony line of watches was by far one of the strongest showings at SIHH. From the Grand Complication to the Tourbillon and to the Dual Time, they really brought the heat in the form of the less oft used cushion case. Of the lot, my favorite was the classic doctor’s chronograph, dubbed the Harmony Chronograph.

Featuring the new manually wound monopusher Caliber 3300, the pulsometer-packed watch shows great balance and restraint. The Harmony Chronograph is a take on a similar watch from 1928, however, the cushion case here has a modern flair to it. I’d like to see the cushion case continue to make a comeback across the market, so this release from Vacheron was great in that regard. The 42mm width is perfect for a watch of this shape, and likely wears like a dream.

Vacheron Constantin Caliber 3300

It’s no surprise that the movement finishing is borderline ridiculous. Vacheron has been increasing the span of their Hallmark of Geneva workshop, and the Harmony line is no exception. Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva, the Caliber 3300 is highlighted by an engraved balance cock, and a column wheel decorated with their signature Maltese Cross. Limited to 260 examples, all made from 18k pink gold, the Harmony Chronograph comes in at a butt-puckering $75,300.

Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Quantième Annual Calendar Vasco da Gama

Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Quantième Annual Calendar Vasco da Gama

I already gave my First Impression for two Montblancs, the Orbis Terrarum and the Dual Time. However, I couldn’t resist including another one of their releases as a favorite of SIHH, the Heritage Chronométrie Quantième Annual Calendar Vasco da Gama (wow, that’s a mouthful). Montblanc has rightfully caught the attention of many watch geeks with consistently impressive releases, and I have to imagine they’re going to catch on in the larger market in due time.

The Annual Calendar VdG is the limited edition version of the Heritage Chronométrie Quantième Annual Calendar, with the difference being the gorgeous moonphase at the 6:00 position. It’s powered by the caliber MB 29.18, whose base movement I cannot figure out. However, any of my concerns there are outweighed by the gorgeous design, and the 40mm diameter and 9.55mm thick case. Since it’s an annual calendar, it’ll require a once-a-year update at the end of February — about as close as you’ll get to a hassle-free perpetual calendar without breaking the bank.

Closeup of the moonphase

Montblanc is offering 238 examples of the Annual Calendar VdG in red gold for about $12,500 after conversion, and 316 stainless steel examples for $7,600. It seems like gold versions of watches are unreasonably more expensive than steel, but here, either one seems fair. For the price, I’m not sure I can think of a better value, especially for a watch out of Switzerland. Well done, Montblanc.

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