Face Off: Unitas 6497 Powered Watches

Watch collecting can get pretty damn specific. Some collectors go for certain styles of watches, some stick to one brand, and others might love a specific movement. Today, we’re helping out those who’re in love the with Unitas 6497. Along with its close relative, the 6498, the 6497 is a hand-wound pocketwatch movement recognized by a small seconds subdial and a big 3/4 plate. While it may not be as intricate looking as a Valjoux 72, the large bridges and plates leave lots of room for classic finishing techniques.

Differentiating the 6497 and 6498 is the location of the small seconds. Due to where the winding mechanism is located, the 6497 typically displays the seconds at the 9:00 position, versus the 6498’s 6:00 position. Other than that, the movements are practically identical. The 46-hour power reserve, unfussy 18,000 bph, and relative ease in finding replacement parts, make this movement dependable and low maintenance. Let’s put it this way, if your watchmaker can’t service a 6497, they may not have ever received formal training. With that said, today we’re bringing you three great options to fill your Unitas 6497 needs.

Weiss Watches Field Watch

Weiss Watch Co Field Watch with black dial

Specifications:

Case Size: 42mm wide; 12.8mm thick

Water Resistance: 100m/330ft

Bracelet/Strap: 20mm olive green, waterproof, lined Cordura canvas

Price: $955

Assessment: Weiss Watch Company is a relative newcomer to the market, but they bring a very polished look. Founder Cameron Weiss is a Swiss-trained watchmaker whose goal is to use traditional techniques combined with a desire to increase the presence of watchmaking in the US. Their first offering, which comes in a variety of dial colors, is the Field Watch.

With dial aesthetics reminiscent of pocketwatches of yesteryear, the Field Watch is a handsome, modern take on old issued military timepieces. Although the large dial and thin bezel may make the watch appear bigger, the 42-millimeter case diameter should still wear nicely for most wrists. Keep in mind, 42-millimeters is about as small as you’re going to get with a 6497 inside.

The best part about the case is that, along with the dial, is made in-house by Weiss. The rest of the components are sourced from Switzerland, but then hand-finished and assembled in Los Angeles. A sapphire exhibition caseback shows off wide Geneva stripes and blued screws. Not just going for looks, the Field Watch is rated to 100m of water resistance, making it safe for, well, any field activities you may participate in.

Along with other US watchmakers like RGM and Kobold, it’s great to see the domestic industry growing. The Field Watch is an excellent inaugural offering, and we’ll be sure to keep an eye on them as they attempt to turn Weiss Watch Co. into an in-house manufacture.

Steinhart Nav B-Uhr 44 ST1 Premium

Steinhart Nav B-Uhr 44 ST1 Premium

Specifications:

Case Size: 44mm wide; 14.2mm thick

Water Resistance: Limited

Bracelet/Strap: 22mm buffalo leather strap

Price: $1,012 (after VAT removed)

Assessment: Steinhart is an interesting German brand that predominantly produces homages. While this may be a point of contention for some, the one homage that seems to be widely accepted by all is that of the original Flieger. Browsing through Steinhart’s collection, you’ll notice a number of Flieger options. Recently, they’ve made an effort to increase their production capabilities, which brought on a few new calibers comprised of certain in-house produced parts, therefore increasing the number of references of Fliegers.

The Nav B-Uhr 44 ST1 Premium boasts the 6497-based caliber ST1, which is made with an in-house 3/4 plate, swan neck regulator, and balance wheel, as well as beautifully finished radial Geneva stripes and perlage. Seeing this level of finishing for what is often considered an homage brand is rather refreshing, and deserving of some attention.

Aside from the movement, opting for this premium version of the Flieger nets you a sandwich dial, which adds depth to an otherwise simple design. The silver guilloché small seconds subdial is another great touch adding even more texture to the dial. As far as the crowded Flieger market is concerned, Steinhart made some excellent design choices – the traditional Flieger look was maintained, but with high-quality finishing touches. The 44-millimeter case diameter, and lack of water resistance are our only gripes. For a Flieger, the case size is forgivable, but water resistance is disappointing.

With countless watches powered by very similar looking 6497s, it’s great to see Steinhart go above and beyond here. We have to give credit where credit is due, as investing in tooling for in-house production certainly isn’t cheap, and can be risky. Keeping the price close to $1,000 makes this Flieger a real competitor for brands like Stowa and Archimede. Although we’d like to see a 42-millimeter case, this is an excellent option for those with wide wrists.

Glycine Incursore

Glycine Incursore

Specifications:

Case Size: 46mm wide; 12mm thick

Water Resistance: 200m/660ft

Bracelet/Strap: 24mm stainless steel bracelet, or calf leather strap

Price: $1,700

Assessment: Glycine is a Swiss watchmaker with roots dating back to 1914. Best known by their Airman line of 24-hour watches, they’ve grown to include a number of different references. Although Glycine changed management once back in 1984, they still manage to capture some of the vintage looks that kept them running for many decades. Here, we’ll be focusing on the Incursore.

Doubtless the biggest of three in today’s Face Off, the Incursore is 46-millimeters wide, and not for the faint of wrist. The overall look is that of a legible field watch, featuring large 12-3-6 numbers, and stick markers for the rest of the hours. The dial and subdial will likely make you think of Panerai, which seems to be the influence here. In fact, if you threw it into a cushion case with a big lever-lock crown guard, it’d be a dead ringer.

As with Weiss and Steinhart, Glycine didn’t just take a stock 6497 and pop it in the case. Ruthenium-coated plates increase corrosion resistance, and the hammered tappiserie finish is a nice change from Geneva stripes. Functionally, the Incursore leads the pack with 200m water resistance. Combined with great legibility, it comes off as a legitimate tool watch.

The size of the Incursore may be a non-starter for some, but it definitely holds a place in today’s market. Although this is the most expensive of the three, it’s still far below the cost of a similar looking Panerai, especially from an established brand like Glycine. We’d wager that many retailers would get that $1,700 down enough to make this comparison very close in cost. For Glycine, the Airman might get most of the attention in their collection, but the Incursore is worth a second look.

Conclusion: All three watches provide excellent value, despite the three different prices. For our money, we’d have to go with Weiss’ Field Watch, and this is for several reasons. First, we love that an American watchmaker is not only trying to show that the stateside industry isn’t dead, but they have a downstream goal of becoming a completely in-house manufacture. Second, the watch itself combines excellent finishing and restrained design. It ticks all the vintage-esque boxes without going over the top. At just under $1,000, the value is strong, both for serious collectors and newbies alike. What watch do you prefer? Let us know in the comments.

Featured image courtesy of Weiss Watch Company.

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