Lately, we’ve been hitting on some true American watchmaking history. For many years, America was a stronghold for the watch world, boasting brands like Bulova, Hamilton, Ball, and Elgin. However, thanks to the quartz crisis, and the major shift towards overseas manufacturing, we really lost our stride.
Thankfully, that’s all slowly changing. In today’s Face Off, we’re pitting three American watch companies against each other in a pilot watch battle. Thing is, Lum-Tec, RGM, and Kobold are more than just competitors; they’re leading the triumphant return of American made watches. Granted, the degree to which their watches are made in America varies, but there’s no denying each company’s intentions. The age of letting the Swiss, Germans, Chinese, and Japenese get all glory is ending. With that, let’s get to it.
Lum-Tec Super Combat B3 Limited ($1,695)
Lum-Tec is a family owned watch brand that mostly focuses on tough, military inspired pieces. Quartz or wallet-friendly Miyota movements power many of their watches. With the Combat B3 Limited, Lum-Tec chose a high-grade Swiss hand winder, hence, the higher price compared to the rest of the lineup.
Assessment: Certainly on the larger size, but not too big by today’s standards, the B3 is a great budget option. Made from with solid titanium, the wide case is offset by the lightweight material and a relatively thin, 12mm profile. Overall, the B3 makes for an effective and practical pilot’s watch. It checks all of the main boxes: a big, legible dial, seriously bright lume, and an accurate timekeeper inside. Assembled, regulated and tested in the USA, this is one handsome American aviator.
Kobold R.E. Byrd ($2,450)
With the help of legendary watchmakers Helmut Sinn and Gerd R. Lang, Michael Kobold has successfully pursued his vision of building a strong lineup of expeditionary watches. Looking across Kobold’s timepieces, you’ll find almost nothing but durable designs and robust build quality. The R.E. Byrd pays tribute to the storied polar aviator with a classically designed pilot’s watch.
Assessment: In general, Kobold’s designs get a bit repetitive, but founder Michael Kobold did a great job breaking away from the chunky bezels, and oversized cases with the R.E. Byrd. What you get is a traditional pilot’s watch with a modern font for the numbers. In fact, of the three here, I think it’s the best looking, especially with the blue sunburst dial.
RGM Model 151P ($2,850)
RGM (an initialism of founder Roland G. Murphy) is also based in Pennsylvania, just like Kobold, and they take the cake of the closest thing to an American in-house manufacture watchmaker. Murphy has amassed a lineup of classically styled timepieces, a couple of in-house movements, and all of which finished with expert craftsmanship. Falling outside their “American Made” line is the model 151P, which is powered by the ETA 2892.
Assessment: This is the most expensive of the three options in today’s Face Off, and for good reason. RGM manufactures many of their watch parts in-house, including the case, which is more than most watchmakers can claim. And although this utilizes a Swiss movement, it’s not only an incredibly reliable one, it’s also finished to Murphy’s high standards.
Conclusion: Each of these three brands brings something distinct to the table. Lum-Tec is the real value proposition here, not just with the B3, but with their whole lineup. If money’s a concern, the B3 is really the way to go. The coin-edge bezel rounds off classic pilot looks, and it’s packed with a reliable movement.
For those of you less worried about your wallet, I really have to go with the RGM. I think Kobold is decidedly interesting, and I’m very confident Michael Kobold will continue to realize his vision for expeditionary watches, but RGM wins out with what’s on the inside. With looks, the edge might go to Kobold, but I tend to lean towards the overall craftsmanship aspect. RGM by a nose!
What do you all think? Leave your comments below!
Featured photo above courtesy of RGM Watches — displaying their gorgeous tourbillon.
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