Wound For Life takes a look at IWC’s new Aquatimer line released at SIHH 2014. It was time for a change in the Aquatimer family and IWC did just that with many different and exciting models to choose from.
Aquatimer Automatic ($5,750)
IWC Aquatimer Automatic
At 42mm wide and 14mm thick, the Automatic’s new dimensions are just about right for a dive watch. Not being much of a fan of the previous iteration — with the brightly colored minute hand and bezels from 12 to 3 o’clock — the more conservative colors and new ratcheting bezel system are a welcomed update, although I’m afraid the bezel may be more novelty than anything. I imagine, though, it would be quite easy to use with gloved hands when diving. I love that the date window blends in perfectly without detracting from the clean dial, but still easy to find. Too many watchmakers continue to use distracting, contrasting date wheels that break up the dial design.
One feature that I can’t seem to get over is the black dial’s faint mint green on the minute hand and markers from 12 to 3 o’clock. It’s a little distracting and doesn’t seem to fit. The white dial model manages to maintain this visibility by using different colored luminova when illuminated, without changing the daylight color of the hands and markers.
I’d take either variant in the bracelet or rubber strap, which are high quality and great improvements over the previous reference. The bracelet also has a new quick release option, which should make strap changing quick and easy — perfect for those of us with busy spring bar tools.
Aquatimer Chronograph ($8,000)
Aquatimer Chronograph
The Aquatimer Chronograph has everything we expect to see from IWC. The large 44mm case houses the caliber 79320, which displays the day and date, and features a 3-6-9 subdial layout. Like the Automatic, the Chronograph is available with a black or silver dial and a steel bracelet or rubber strap. Although it checks all the boxes I’d want in a diving chronograph, it just doesn’t have any unique appeal for me. No soul, some would say.
Deep Three ($19,000)
Aquatimer Deep Three
I’m a big fan of the looks of the Deep Three. The strap is robust and the depth gauge system is fantastic. The red outlines of the hour and minute hands add subtle color and legibility without being distracting. At 46mm wide, it’s quite large and certainly not for everyone. One thing that seems odd is, with a depth gauge and a name like “Deep Three”, I would think it should have a higher depth rating than 100 meters — although that’s more than enough for most of the folks looking to spend $19,000 on a mechanical dive watch.
Automatic 2000 ($10,100)
Aquatimer Automatic and 2000 — photo courtesy of Professional Watches
The Aquatimer 2000 is the most visually understated model in the line, however, its features are anything but. It has a classic “tuxedo” dial and an impressive depth rating of 2000 meters, hence the name. It’s a formidable watch at 46mm wide and 20mm tall, but despite the size, the titanium case will still maintain an overall light weight. Lastly, it features the tried and true IWC in-house caliber 80110 — so no complaints there.
Expedition Jacques-Yves Cousteau ($7,200)
Aquatimer Expedition Jacques-Yves Cousteau
The Cousteau-monikered model is the best looking Aquatimer, in my opinion. Like the standard AT Chronograph, it features the caliber 79320 inside a 44mm case — right in the dive watch sweet spot. The blue dial, coral-red accents, and black rubber strap work together as a great combination. IWC doesn’t come out with a “Cousteau” model very often, so I imagine these will go quickly.
50 Years of Science for Galapagos, Galapagos Islands, and Expedition Charles Darwin ($11,100-$11,200)
50 Years Science For Galapagos
Other special editions this year are the 50 Years of Science for Galapagos, the Galapagos Islands, and the Expedition Charles Darwin.
With its striking, contrasting looks, I think the “50 Years” is a move by IWC to appeal to a broader range of buyers. The all matte black case and dial with bright blue super luminova is quite a contrast. It may not appeal to a classic watch enthusiast — I, for one, think neon blue-on-black “cheapens” the watch some and resembles something you’d find at a mall kiosk.
The Galapagos Islands model is similar to that of the “50 Years” model but with less drama. Its white accents are a good contrast against the matte black case and dial, but not quite as “in your face” as the bright blue. Undoubtedly, both versions will attract some blackout watch fans.
The Expedition Charles Darwin is certainly a unique model for IWC. It is a departure from the Galapagos versions with its bronze case. Bronze develops a patina all its own, and I’m looking forward to seeing what this model will look like after some good use.
The proportions and symmetry of these three models are spot on with a 44mm case and a 12/6 o’clock subdial layout. Each variant features 300 meters of water resistance, and IWC’s venerable in-house 89365 movement.
Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month ($49,700)
Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month
The most complicated, largest, and pricey Aquatimer reference is the Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month. The movement is the IWC in-house 89801 movement used in last year’s Ingenieur showcasing the same complications. The large 49mm (!) case is made of titanium and red gold. Complications include displays for the date and month, leap year indicator, chronograph, and a flyback function. This is the first time IWC has made an Aquatimer of this stature. Only 50 of these are being made so get one while you can, if you have the means.
Overall I think the Aquatimer line has made great improvements from the previous iteration. As displayed with their other watch families, variety is the name of the game. It seems there’s an Aquatimer reference for everyone, or so they hope. There is always room for improvement and it can be easy to nitpick, but the design, features, cases, materials, and movements show that IWC is stepping up its game.
What do you think of the new IWC Aquatimer line?
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