At just under $4,000 the new NOMOS Metro 38 Datum (with Urban Gray dial) delivers a blue-chip package loaded with charisma and sophistication. Even the name “Metro” exudes a sense of classic inspiration and modern design, which is evident in this timepiece. While other brands are adding new valves and virtual novels to their dials, NOMOS continues to focus on their award wining strengths of simple dials, slender hands, narrow bezel, and clear form. If you’re not familiar with NOMOS, don’t worry I wasn’t either until around 2005 when they transitioned to in-house movements and a friend told me I better get right. Currently NOMOS produces nine in-house calibers with a multitude of complications, but most recently and notably, NOMOS released their Swing System escapement. It was a declaration of their independence from the luxury watch market’s global suppliers (i.e. ETA). Powered by an in-house movement, and again under $4,000, I’m jumping on board with the Metro for the long ride.
You’ll notice immediately the new Metro is without a power reserve indicator, which is a positive to me. The updated design is simplified and provides a sense of unity and cohesion that I feel was lost in the previous reference. With the addition of the handsome “urban gray” dial, which dances between gray and black with a matte finish, the update comes off cool and far more edgy. Designed for NOMOS by Mark Braun – a Berlin based designed well known for his furniture, lighting, and home goods – the watch has a very minimalist vibe much like its Bauhaus roots without feeling sterile. Mint green painted hour markers at 3,6,9 continue to add to the character of the dial and the red lacquered sub-second hand provides a needed accent. The polish and sculpting is exceptional from the case to the lugs, which have a vintage trench watch feel. Paired with a slim yet robust handmade Horween strap, the feel is refined and crisp. As we flip the Metro over we finally get a look at the in-house Swing System, much like the front of the watch, the little details add pop and value.
As primarily a vintage watch collector I look forward to winding my watches and I am immediately turned on by anything manual. The in-house DUW 4101 is smooth when winding the movement yet provides enough resistance that it fulfills my need for something tactile. Aside from the deletion of the power reserve indicator, there are no notable changes to the movement. The increased case size (from 37mm to 38.5mm) projects a slightly more masculine feel, which I prefer as a perennial diver/chronograph collector. The increased size doesn’t detract from the comfort of the Metro, which hugs the wrist and sits well under a cuff. The curved sapphire crystal has a unique “standing on the edge of the world” feeling that is so fluid you get lost in the meticulous edging. The fluidity continues with the cuff style shell cordovan strap tanned in Chicago by the leather gurus at Horween. My example had a black strap, but NOMOS offers them in multiple colors, textures, and textiles, all available through their online store. Yet another way NOMOS separate themselves from other brands who stick to old traditions and shy away from online sales.
The Metro on the Metro
The Metro Datum is another iteration of exceptional watchmaking that scores on nearly every level, right down to the in-house manufactured escapement. With a more proportional dial and increased case size, the watch looks and feels relevant without compromising its classic styling. While it may feel like NOMOS is a relatively new brand, their reputation for innovation and design has been building since the ‘90s. By achieving independence from Swiss giants and establishing themselves as a standalone brand, NOMOS continues to differentiate from the pack.
Watch courtesy of JB Hudson Jewelers in Minneapolis, MN. Special thank you to Nick Peckman and David Brenke.
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