We’re back with our weekly favorites with picks from around the web in this week’s installment of Market Watch(ing). Check out our latest picks!
Shane’s Picks
Omega Seamaster Soccer Timer 145.020
If you follow our Instagram account, it’s no secret I love my Omega Soccer Timer. For me, it’s one of the best chronographs Omega has ever released. It has a movement that hopped around on the moon, it has interesting colors, it wears incredibly comfortably, and it was meant to time freaking soccer matches. As mentioned in our article about the Soccer Timer, it was made as two different references: the 145.019 (the one I have), and the 145.020.
Here we have the 145.020, the non-rotating bezel version. I definitely prefer the rotating bezel, but I still consider this to be an awesome and collectible alternative. This example has an original tritium dial that’s in excellent shape, and a case that appears to have original finish. I’ve handled this one in person, so I’m not just basing my opinion on pictures. The guys behind Luxuwrist are top notch, and you can deal in 100% confidence. Normally you’d expect a dealer to charge a bit of a premium, but with a list of $2,699, I doubt they’re making a huge margin on it. You’ll commonly find these at $2,800 or above with an original dial, and then add another $500 to $1,000 for a 145.019. Somebody grab this before I expand my Soccer Timer collection; please, my wallet begs you.
D. Dornblüth & Sohn 99.1
I love lots of things about watches, but two things for sure are: marine chronometers, and finely finished movements. If you’re in the same boat, you don’t have to look any further than D. Dornblüth & Sohn. Basically, these guys take Unitas 6498 calibers and finish the hell out of them (they also have created in-house calibers). We’re talking custom bridges, their own click spring mechanism, beautiful snailing on the mainspring barrel, hand engraved balance cock, and the addition of a swan neck regulator. A lot of the watches they produce are made-to-order. That’s great if you like a lot of customized details. The downfall is that they don’t hit the second-hand market very often (because people keep them!).
The example I found is pretty much the cleanest and simplest example of a Dornblüth, the 99.1. At first glance, it could easily be confused with a Stowa marine chronometer, but there’s definitely a bit more to it. It comes with the original box and papers (purchased in 2005), and appears to be in fantastic shape aside from probably needing a new strap. This one is up for $3,425 right now, which is a good deal compared to the current $4,390 retail. If you want something that’s extremely well-crafted, but will still fly under the radar, well, then, you’re welcome.
Neil’s Picks
Panerai 111
Panerai PAM00111
It’s not small at 44mm but easily wearable thanks to the manual wind COSC certified OP XI Calibre movement inside the low lying case and its curved lugs. The 111 checks all the Panerai boxes; 44mm, device protecting the crown, display case back, sub seconds at 9, and sandwich dial. I won’t drone on about why I love the PAM 111 but you can certainly read my ramblings here. This Q Serial circa 2014 is a fine example. The case looks to be devoid of any scratches and the leather strap is still in fine condition. This isn’t likely to be around long. Not only does it come with boxes, two straps, and a screwdriver, but the price makes it ripe for the picking.
Nomos Ahoi Atlantik
Nomos Ahoi Atlantik
Nomos is a brand that continues to impress us. One of my favorite watches of the past year from them is Ahoi Atlantik. This is a watch the pictures do not do justice. The deep blue of the dial with contrasting ivory colored numbers and markers, and striking red sub seconds hand makes for a killer combination. With its vintage style woven strap, it’s also right at home in the water with 200m water resistance. Nomos’ in-house automatic caliber Epsilon (ε) powers the Atlantik and is finished and displayed beautifully through the sapphire caseback.
This example is unworn and, although based in Germany and priced in Euros, it is still a great deal for this outstanding piece. It’s also being sold by a trusted seller on Chrono24 that also speaks english. Those Germans sure know how to build a fine watch.
Isaac’s Picks
Universal Geneve Tri-Compax “Eric Clapton”
Here is another piece from the guys over at Menta Watches. They’ve been sourcing some quality watches lately, and this one is surely no exception. Universal Geneve’s Tri-Compax is a seriously cool piece, and the one in question today is the highly desirable “Eric Clapton Compax”, seeing as Clapton had been photographed many years back while wearing one. You can easily point them out by their panda dials, which are certainly quite easy on the eyes. Anyone want to lend me some interest free cash?
Menta’s example is indeed all original, and the bezel looks to be in great shape, which is not commonly seen on these watches. The market for UG’s is quite hot at the moment, and I think we’ll see significant price increases in the near future, so this piece is effectively quite a good investment. Additionally, they’re doing a pretty sweet “giveaway” on Instagram at the moment, and a vintage Waltham dive watch is up for grabs. I typically don’t enter into contests like these, seeing as they usually don’t work out in my favour, but this one I decided was worth a shot. Fingers crossed!
$18,500
Wakmann Triple Date Chronograph
I always like coming across a watch that bears a highly sophisticated movement, wrapped up nicely in a sporty package. Such a combination seems to produce a nice contrast of old world techniques and expertise with contemporary aesthetic sensibilities. Well, I can gladly say that I found just that in this Wakmann Incabloc Triple Date Chronograph from the good people over at San Francisco’s H.Q. Milton. This example is in especially nice condition, with all its lume plots intact, a clean matte black dial, and no significant signs of staining/discolouration. Additionally, at 37mm, these Wakmann’s wear quite nicely on the wrist, with a conservative yet substantial presence. If complications are your “thing”, then I think we’ve found your next watch.
One thing that I like a lot about this piece is the price. Countless people complain to me on a weekly basis that it’s “impossible” to acquire interesting vintage pieces on a relative budget, and this watch proves that this is not at all the case. Triple date chronos like this specific Wakmann always manage to put a smile on my face, and One thing to note about H.Q. Milton, is that they’re some of the most reputable individuals in the industry, and to say they know their stuff would be an understatement. They seem to move their inventory quite fast, so if you’re interested, time is of the essence.
Dean’s Picks
So, this week I moved back to NYC. Leaving SF was certainly a bitter pill but luckily I knew where to go get my horological fill in NYC and earlier today I headed over to my friends James and Jacob at Analog/Shift. Here are 2 watches (that I’m allowed to talk about) that stood out to me from my visit.
Eberhard 18K Chronograph
Eberhard 18K Chronograph
The first piece I gravitated towards was this amazing oversize 18k Eberhard and Co. with a Valjoux manual wind column wheel chronograph movement from 1949. When I picked it up I was immediately struck by the size of the hinged back case and the beautiful dial. It wasn’t until James pointed it out that I realized the watch was actually a monopusher. That second pusher you see there actually isn’t a pusher at all, but slides upwards to lock the chronograph hand in place. This is a very cool stuff and incredibly wearable wrist watch, not to mention the fact that this brand is poised to make a BIG jump in popularity (and likely value) among collectors here in the US.
Omega DeVille Chronograph
Omega DeVille Chronograph
The second watch that immediately caught my eye was a blue dialed Omega DeVille Chronograph. Now listen, I’m not an Omega guy per se, nor am I a movement nerd but conversations debating the relative merits of the Omega cal .321 vs the .861 for some reason get my blood up like most other WIS. Your milage may vary, but I and most people out there probably prefer a .321 for a variety of reasons. From a purely aesthetic standpoint I LOVE an applied logo dial and these dials are generally associated with older watches, which generally carried the older .321 movement. This watch is powered by the .861 but still has that great look to it. The size is perfect and that blue dial just speaks to me, as I’m sure it will you. I agree with James that these “off-label-non-speedy” vintage Omegas are a relative bargain.
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