One of the team’s favorite article series to read is What’s Selling Where on Hodinkee. Each week, our friend Eric Wind would deliver a handful of his favorite watches for sale around the web, including a nice writeup about each. His recent departure got us thinking about doing a similar series, yet focusing specifically on tool watches. We’re positive Mr. Clymer will do a fantastic job in Eric’s place, but we figured it couldn’t hurt to share more great watches with the community.
Keep in mind, we’ve done very rudimentary reference checks on the sellers we didn’t already know. If you’re interested in any of the watches in this article, or in future articles, please go through your normal vetting process to ensure the deal’s success.
Dean’s Picks
Heuer Autavia 11630P
Heuer Autavia “Mick Jagger”
The first is this Heuer Autavia 11630P, a.k.a. the “Mick Jagger” Heuer. A lot has been written about Sir Mick’s association with this particular model on both Hodinkee and On the Dash. What makes this fun and a little rarer than your usual run-of-the-mill Autavia is the decompression bezel. While the annotation isn’t really useful for modern divers (some could argue that about the mechanical dive watch in general), the bezel essentially acts as your no-decompression table. Prior to the dive, you would align the zero on the bezel to your minute hand, which would then time your no decompression limit by the maximum depth specified on the bezel. But who cares, because Mick Jagger, right?
This example looks great. There is some mild patina on the subdials, but that doesn’t bother me. The bright orange hands really pop and the case and and movement look sharp. It’s available for 4300 euro over on Chronotrader from a seller who seems to be a regular on the board. However, he hasn’t done much selling, so do your due diligence before buying.
Universal Geneve Tri-Compax
Universal Geneve Tri-Compax
The next watch I like is also is associated with a famous musician, but one with a much more robust presence in the watch world. Of course, I’m talking about Slow Hand. We all know about his association with some of the most expensive watches in the world, including the 2499P and the Captain Lou Albino Daytona. The watch I’m talking about is a bit more accessible to mere mortals like you and me, and that’s the white dialed Universal Geneve Tri-Compax.
I have a constant internal struggle with vintage UG. On one hand they are great looking complicated watches that have a ton of style. On the other, I think they are currently wildy over priced for what you get. I owned one briefly a few months back, and when I got it in hand it just did not have the weight and quality feel I was expecting. It certainly didn’t feel as robust as your average Rolex or Heuer from the same time period. Also, here’s the dirty little secret about UG Tri-Compax no one ever mentions: these things are service nightmares. Many vintage dealers I talk to shun the Tri-Compax like the plague because they are always in the shop. Specifically there is a small part that houses the pusher for the calendar functions that seems to break very easily and frequently. One minute all the pushers work just fine, the next, they’re stuck inside their housing tubes.
Regardless of this fact, Watches of Knightsbridge has a beautiful white dialed “Clapton” Tri-Compax in its June 20th auction and the estimate is 4-6k GBP. The dial is clean and everything looks correct to my relatively untrained eye. Considering the NOS complete set exotic dialed one just went for something like a million dollars at the Philips sale (all numbers approximate), I doubt you’re taking this home for 4k GBP + buyers fees. At any rate, it’s gorgeous and would go really well with my man bun and Grateful Dead lot shirt.
Isaac’s Picks
Seiko Gen 1 7A28-7120
Seiko Gen 1 7A28-7120
It’s no secret that I’m a big fan of military watches of all sorts, from 5517’s to your basic G.I. watch. There’s just something so inexplicably awesome about knowing that the watch you wear was originally issued to a specific individual, for the sole purpose of assisting that person in doing their honorable service. Within this realm of horology are many sub-factions, but the watches that always seem to pique my interest are pilot’s chronographs. Now while I typically try and promote the purchase of mainly mechanical pieces, there are a few exceptions, and this is by all means one of them.
Seiko’s 7A28-7120, otherwise known as the “Gen 1”, was an RAF-issued quartz chronograph back in the early 80’s, that was used for 6 years, until its successor replaced it. As the name would suggest, this watch made use of the first analog quartz chronograph movement, the 7A28, which was truly a revolutionary workhorse. If that wasn’t enough, you just really can’t argue with the overall aesthetic of the piece. Perfectly legible, concise, and oozing practical cool.
Here, we’ve got an example dating back to the very first year of production (1984), and it’s in rather nice condition. The military markings on the caseback are nice and defined, and the case is in great shape, save for a few dings and scratches around the bezel. It’s currently listed on Watchuseek for $899, which is fair in my opinion, and is located in Hong Kong. Definitely a good buy.
Ulysse Nardin Diver
Ulysse Nardin Diver
If discussing notable dive watches throughout history with a group of self-confessed watch nuts, the usual suspects (Rolex, Blancpain, Doxa, Seiko, etc.) are bound to come up. However, I can just about guarantee you that Ulysse Nardin will not. “Why is this,” you ask? Well, to put it simply, they produced so very few dive watches, and it’s for this reason that this next piece is one serious rarity. I, for one, have only ever seen one other example, coming from Matthew Bain in Miami.
This example may be a little well loved, but the truth of the matter is that it’s a take it or leave it type of situation. You just about never see these watches coming up for sale, so finding one is a miracle to begin with, not to mention one in an all original state. For me, the fact that it still has the original signed bracelet is a huge plus, and shouldn’t go unnoticed.
If you’re interested in this piece, it’s currently available in New York City from the good folks over at Analog/Shift (price on inquiry). These guys are some of the most passionate and knowledgeable dealers I know of that are out there today, and they curate some really cool pieces. As a semi-related side note, word on the street is that they’ve got some quality scotch and horological paraphernalia at their new Manhattan headquarters.
Shane’s Picks
Lemania Swedish Army Flyback Chronograph
Lemania Swedish Army Flyback Chronograph
Like Isaac, I also have an affinity for military watches. If a mass produced tool watch has the capability of handling a specific task, the military issued watch has left the factory knowing it would be performing a specific task — I think that’s what draws me in. Now, looking past the usual suspects from the US Navy, Royal Air Force, etc., I came across a quirky Swedish Army-issued flyback chronograph from Lemania. This bad boy was made for the Army’s bomb squad.
I see these come up here and there, but they’re quite rare. This particular example appears to be in good condition, and has all of the correct caseback markings. Many of the examples I’ve seen have “Tg195” on the dial, however, early examples do not have this marking (which represents “giving time” in Swedish). The movement looks clean enough, stamped, and comes with the dust cover.
What I love most about this watch is the function of the flyback pusher. When depressed, the seconds hand flies back to 12:00, and the crown pops out. It’s basically an instantaneous hack that prepares you for adjusting the time immediately. Upon returning the crown, the time starts again. At $3,895, I think it’s a bit overpriced, but then again, there aren’t any others for sale at the moment that I can see. This is one of those ones that always tempts me, but it’s never the right time when I catch one for sale. If it’s the right time for you, this would be an awesome piece to add to any collection.
Zenith Rainbow El Primero
Zenith Rainbow El Primero
I don’t think the El Primero movement needs any introduction, so I’ll save you the lecture. Zenith has used this awesome movement in countless watches, but one of my favorites is the Rainbow. To be clear, the original Rainbow, not the abomination re-issued fairly recently. Here we have one in good condition and for a reasonable price.
Zenith pitched a perfect game with this watch, in my opinion. The 40mm size is just right, and the watch overall wears very comfortably. This example has some fading, but the colors on the minute totalizer track and the external bezel are still present. Everything appears to be original, and the even fading helps verify that. The seller doesn’t give a very detailed description of the movement’s condition, but he says it’s working as it should. I will throw out a word of caution: El Primeros can be a nightmare with servicing. Independent watchmakers have a hard time coming across parts. Nevertheless, I wouldn’t let it stop me from adding one to my collection at the right price, which is the case here at $2,900. I’m not sure there’s a better value for an El Primero than an old school Rainbow.
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