Not long ago, we compared the original and most recent Explorer II’s from Rolex. Between the two orange-handed references are another two oft-overlooked sport Rolexes: references 16550 and 16570. Since the 16570 can be found with relative ease and at consistent pricing, we’ll focus on the transitional Explorer II 16550 in this article.
There are likely a good lot of you who know what the term “transitional” means in reference to Rolex, but let me catch the rest of you up. Each Rolex model – Submariner, GMT Master, Explorer II, etc. – includes a number of different references that identify production runs of watches with specific characteristics. For instance, the GMT Master reference 1675 is known for the caliber 1575, acrylic crystal, and matte dial. The last of the GMT Masters, the reference 16700, is known for its caliber 3175, sapphire crystal, and glossy dial. However, to get the to ref 16700, Rolex introduced the transitional reference 16750, which included some aspects of the 1675, and some from the 16700, hence, “transitional”. The same goes for the Explorer II reference 16550, which bridged the gap between the 1655 and 16570.
Utilizing the same movement as the GMT Master 16760’s caliber 3085, the 16550 was an upgrade from the 1655 in that it had an independent hour hand to track a second timezone. One of the limitations of the 1655 versus the GMT Master reference 1675 was the fixed bezel didn’t allow for tracking another timezone. But aside from the movement upgrade, the 16550 looked pretty much like a GMT Master, just with a stainless steel bezel. The case shape was made to be much more in line with the Oyster case we’re all familiar with on the Subs and GMTs of its time. Since it’s a transitional model, Rolex only produced the 16550 for about four years, from 1985 to 1989, making it a rather rare model amongst its peers.
Generally speaking, the reference 16550 can be separated into the black and white dials. Looking deeper, though, 16550s vary in detail enough to tremendously affect current market value. Let’s break them down.
Black Dial 16550
Black dial Explorer II. Note the even spacing between “Superlative Chronometer; Officially Certified”. Photo courtesy of CJCharles.com
With all other things being equal, the black dial Explorer IIs are often less valuable than white dials. The black gloss dial with white gold hands and hour marker surrounds were similar to the dials of the Submariner and GMT Master, and it’s quite possible the white dial was different enough to appeal to the average buyer. For any of you on the lookout for a black dial 16550, pay close attention to the “Superlative Chronometer; Official Certified” wording on the bottom half of the dial. You just might find a “rail dial” out there, which always command a bit of a premium. For a watch that is already relatively rare, a rail dial is even more so.
White Dial 16550
This is where things get interesting. The most widely accepted white dial is the one with white gold hands and surrounds. These also came with both rail and non-rail wording on the bottom half of the dial. Things get even more interesting because these white dials – due to some sort of paint defect – turned to a nice cream or ivory color. Where black dial 16550s go for about $5,000 or so on an Oyster bracelet, you can easily double that for cream dials, typically more. You’re probably shaking your head; but, frankly, the cream dial is no more ridiculous of a reason for high prices than a small hand, chapter ring, or fat font bezel.
A defected white dial turned cream. From our friends at EuropeanWatch.com
It seems that by the end of the 16550s run, Rolex corrected the dial defect and utilized dials and handsets from the upcoming reference 16570, which had black hour surrounds and hands instead of white gold. Whether these watches were born with the new parts, or whether they were being changed out after the fact (by the consumer or Rolex service), it’s not completely clear. Logically speaking, Rolex has been known to pull parts from different models when necessary, so it makes sense that the dials were taken from the follow-on model to fix the cream problem. However, digging through the forums, it’s hard to get a real answer.
White dial with black surrounds and hands on the wrist. Courtesy of my old collection.
At any rate, steer clear of cream dials with black surrounds and hands, even with punched papers – they’re not worth the risk. It wouldn’t be shocking if some enterprising folks out there were swapping lume plots to achieve a more desirable vintage Rolex. You’ll have to pay a serious premium, but we recommend sticking to white gold surrounds and hands if you want a cream dial. It’s an extremely rare reference that will likely hold its value for a long time to come.
The reference 16550 Explorer II is easily one of the more under-appreciated vintage sport Rolexes. With a number of different variants in only a few years of production, it’s likely only a matter of time before their value shoots up higher. Many examples of the 16550 will be turning 30 in the coming years – so, who said they wanted to know what the next vintage Rolex bubble would be?
Featured photo from our friends at HQ Milton.
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