Under The Loupe: Rolex GMT Master 1675

Next up on our journey to further understand some of our favorite vintage watches is the Rolex GMT Master 1675. Both rich history and technical significance have been synonymous with our beloved vintage Rolex references, and this one is surely no exception. Being the successor to the earlier bakelite-bezeled reference 6542, this updated reference perfectly captured the brand’s constant efforts to make robust and reliable tool watches. The truth of the matter was that Bakelite was just too fragile of a material to be put through the abuse to which these watches were subjected, so the addition of crown guards and an aluminum bezel insert was definitely appreciated back in the day. Rolex would produce the 1675 for an astonishing 21 years, a testament to its real world functionality and timeless design. Be it on a Jubilee or an Oyster, reminiscent of Pepsi or fresh blueberries, gilt or matte dialed, there’s no denying the historically significant and iconic nature of this watch. Without further ado, let’s go Under the Loupe on the Rolex GMT Master 1675.

El Cornino

Seeing as the 1675 was the first GMT reference to feature crown guards, earlier examples didn’t feature the same crown guards that we know and love today. In some of the earliest days of the 1675, we saw the use of pointed crown guards alongside chapter ring gilt dials. Nicknamed the “El Cornino” by collectors for its horn-like appearance, it featured a curved profile that pointed towards the crown. The Cornino lasted only from 1959 to 1965/1966, making it a rarity in today’s market. While some may not understand the premium to be paid for a slightly different shaped case detail, it’s just something that us watch nuts appreciate and can spot from a mile away. The key with finding decent El Cornino examples, as with all other variants, is to find one with minimal polishing work done. The pointed crown guards are what make these examples so attractive, and to see them worn away is a shame.

Small GMT Hand

It goes without saying that this one isn’t too hard to figure out. Basically, early examples that were fitted with gilt dials also featured a smaller GMT hand, relative to later executions. As the gilt dials began to be phased out in favor of the matte dials, small GMT hands were replaced with larger ones, for increased legibility. A gilt dial 1675 should have been born with a small GMT hand, so if you see one with the large version, it’s likely a service hand. With that said, it is possible to find a matte dialed 1675 with the small GMT hand, as Rolex has been known to use their older parts until no more were left. This isn’t a large detail, but it too represents how the brand was always trying to improve their products, as they were ultimately used as tools, not luxury goods as they’re regarded today.

Gilt Dial

Like we discussed in the last installment of Under The Loupe, Rolex used gilt dials in their early sports watch executions. The first few years of gilt dial 1675’s have a chapter ring (can be seen in the picture above), and then without the chapter ring towards the end of their run. These glossy finish dials featured gold text and markings, either applied to the surface of the dial, and then covered with a clear coat, or the text was engraved into the dial revealing the gold colored plate underneath the surface. Such examples have truly aged beautifully, as the combination of blue, red, and gold against the black dial (often faded to a tropical brown) works amazingly well. We’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Gilt dial 1675 with small hand

Blueberry

Of all the 1675 variants, this one is somewhat of an oddball. Dubbed the “Blueberry” by collectors for its full blue colored bezel, this striking 1675 is quite scarce, and is often imitated. Due to the ease of simply replacing your standard Pepsi bezel with an aftermarket blue one that’s been given an aged aesthetic, it’s believed that many Blueberries that’ve sold on the market were by no means original. From the little that’s known of the Blueberry, it’s said that these blue bezels were only offered on watches that were specially ordered by a retailer (e.g. Cartier, Tiffany) or a military outfit, such as the French or UAE Air Force. Additionally, it’s common to see examples fitted with an all red GMT hand, making for an especially drool-worthy look. Although it can’t be denied that Blueberry is quite simply awesome, it’s a watch that requires doing some extra homework before a purchase. Prices for authentic bezels can reach crazy heights, like $4,000 “crazy”. So, as the saying goes, buyer beware.

A UAE military issued 1675, featuring a blueberry blue bezel.

Radial Dial

Just about in the middle of the 1675’s two-decade production, a dial variant known as the “radial dial” was used. What signifies a radial dial are smaller hour markers that appear to be further away from the second hashes. Next to non-radial dials, the difference is quite obvious. Since they were used for only a portion of the 1675’s run, they are proportionately rare, and can command slightly higher prices than other matte dials.

1675 Radial Dial with “fuchsia” insert — photo courtesy of HQ Milton

Root Beer or Clint Eastwood

Introduced around 1963, the “Clint Eastwood”, or “Root Beer” GMT was offered alongside the steel and all-gold variants. Featuring a two-tone case and bracelet — stainless steel and 18K gold — and a brown dial with a brown bezel insert (hence, “Root Beer”), the 1675/3 has a unique look. For many, it’s a “love it or hate it” kind of thing. We tend to love it, not only because it’s become somewhat of a classic, but Clint Eastwood donned it in some of his movies, as well as in his personal life. The original Root Beer lasted until about 1977 when the 3xxx series of calibers were introduced. Early versions were outfitted with the all-brown insert, followed by two-tone inserts of brown and gold. Purists would probably lean towards the brown inserts, but both look pretty awesome on a nicely aged example. A quick way to separate 1675 Root Beers from the 16750 versions are the hour markers. Known as “nipple dials”, 1675 Root Beers have cone shaped markers with small luminous dots in the center, whereas 16750 Root Beers have the more recognizable markers found on other Rolex sports watches, just with yellow gold surrounds versus white.

Clint Eastwood GMT Master

The GMT Master 1675 is far and away one of the most iconic watches of all time. It’s long run highlights its popularity amongst Rolex enthusiasts, collectors, and folks who just wanted a solid beater. With all of the variations of the 1675, it’s a great reference to get lost in, researching the nuances and finding the one that speaks to you most.

Featured photo courtesy of Rolex Forums member ryan5446.

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