Over the last few years, Omega has been on a roll like no other, at least in its price range. We’ve heard some complaints about their prices creeping up towards Rolex territory; however, they keep pumping out interesting watches with strong technology to back them up. One of their latest releases, announced at Baselworld 2014, is the Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial. Without sounding hyperbolic, the SM300 Master Co-Axial is arguably the best sport watch release from 2014, and we were lucky enough to get our hands on one for review.
In my mind, dive watches tend to fall into two general categories: serious divers and spiritual divers. Serious divers exceed standards, are extremely legible, and are made to do a job (think Rolex Deep Sea Sea-Dweller or Omega Ploprof). Spiritual divers meet most dive watch standards, but may not be ideal for diving – mostly serving as a good-looking watch to wear for many occasions (think Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver or Cartier de Calibre Diver). The third category, which happens to be the most exclusive, can pull of the other two with ease. I dub this category “classic diver”. Watches like the Rolex Submariner, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and IWC Aquatimer ref 3548 fit easily into the “classic diver” category, and I’d like to now nominate the SM300 Master Co-Axial for membership.
It’s bold to call it a classic already, but Omega really covered all bases with this vintage revival. Starting with the case, it’s the perfect size for a modern sport watch, sitting at 41mm wide, 48mm lug-to-lug, and 15mm thick. It’s larger than its vintage predecessor, but right for today. My wrists are about 6.75”, and it fits perfectly. Sticking to the original design, Omega maintained the straight lugs, and avoided crown guards. The lugs are just the right length to work with a NATO strap (or any other strap, for that matter). The bezel is maybe a bit thicker than it needs to be, but the uni-directional action is crisp, and has almost no “play”. Of course, one of the biggest upgrades from the original CK2913 is the liquidmetal bezel, which has a highly polished, yet still legible, appearance.
My complaints about the case are few, but I would have like either 20mm or 22mm lugs, if only to increase stock strap options. You can always have straps custom made, but it’s nice to have the option for cheap, interchangeable straps once in a while. I like the straight lugs and their vintage looks, but I might have chosen to brush the tops of the lugs, and polish the sides of the case instead. Reason being, if you were to get the centerlinks brushed, it might throw off the overall look of the watch. In other words, brushing the centerlinks would leave the tops of the lugs the only polished surface, possibly causing the lugs to look out of place.
If I had a favorite part of the watch, it’d probably be the dial. Omega rightly maintained the dial aesthetics of the CK2913, but made a few changes to bring it to the 21st century. First off, the luminous markers and hands are “aged”, or have faux-tina. I’ve heard a lot of complaining about faux-tina, but it doesn’t bother me in the least. In fact, I love it. Why can’t they be colored? Why does lume have to be white? I guess it’s one of those “love it or hate” things. At any rate, the other major characteristic of the dial is the sunken hour markers. Up close, the dial appears to be of the “sandwich” type, just like many Panerai dials. However, the hour markers are cut out and filled with lume, rather than using a luminous disc below the dial, giving a sunken appearance. It’s a great look that adds depth to the dial. Finally, I love the broad arrow hands. A marquee symbol of Omega’s sports watches of the late 1950s, the broad arrow hands complete the old school aesthetics.
Following my favorite part of the watch, let’s go to my least favorite: the bracelet. Okay, this one is hit and miss at the worst. I’m not a fan of polished centerlinks. I think a lot of folks would agree with me that Omega should have toned down the polished surfaces, especially on the centerlinks. It takes away from the dive watch intention to a degree. With that said, I’ve started to get used to the look, and they bother me far less than they did initially. On the plus side, the bracelet is very comfortable, and the micro-adjustable clasp is quite useful.
Powering the SM300 is Omega’s flagship caliber 8400. A silicon hairspring, fully anti-magnetic movement, and 60 hours of power reserve add up to one of the best movements in its class. The only thing holding me back from saying it is in fact the best is that it’s too young at this point. On paper, it’s hard to beat, but I’ll give it a few more years of production before I go that far. Another feature I absolutely love about the movement is the quick-change hour hand. Before the time-setting crown placement, you have the ability to move the hour hand by itself, making timezone and Daylight Savings changes a breeze. And although it may be a bit industrial looking, the caliber 8400 is nicely finished and fun to watch through the exhibition caseback.
Okay, so the watch is good looking; but can it dive? The short answer is yes. That thick bezel I mentioned will be easier to turn with gloves on than anything thinner. While the minute hand could have benefitted from more lume, the overall strong glow should be able to handle underwater reading. Regulated to chronometer specifications and water resistant to 300m, the SM300 should act as a rather reliable submerged timekeeper.
The Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial is the full package. A capable dive watch fit for just about any wrist, and any occasion. I’ve tried it on a multitude of straps, and have yet to find one the SM300 looks bad on. If you had any thoughts about making this one the next watch in your collection, you’re unlikely to be disappointed.
I really think the SM300 Master Co-Axial is an instant classic. But, what about you? Let us know in the comments.
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Chris
Enjoyed the review. I appreciate you including not only dimensions, but also a description of how it wears.
Shame about the bracelet, though.
Shane Griffin
Thanks for the kind words. My complaints mostly arise because there’s so little wrong about the watch. It kind of makes you focus on details more so than on a more problematic watch.
Elton Balch
I’ve owned my SM 300 for almost two months now and I agee completely that it is already a classic. I am hard pressed to find anything I dislike about this watch including the polished links. I am not a fan of polished links but the look just seems “right” to me and I’m pleasantly surprised that they are not the scratch and smudge magnet I thought they would be. The look and feel compare favorably with any of the Rolex watches I’ve owned though obviously the jury is still out on long term durability. It’s a great value in comparison to other watches at this price point.
Shane Griffin
Agreed all around. Thanks for reading.
Jeff
I’m sorry, but I’m just not seeing the value proposition in here in contrast with an original CK2913 — and that’s even *after* taking into account the immediate drop in value of newly made watches after purchase. I love the dial too … but I also love it on the nearly identical Seamasters and Railmasters that combined offer two-thirds of the “1957 Omega Trinity” of iconic tool watches.
I do, however, prefer it to the current Railmaster design, which is similar on first glance but nowhere near as nuanced upon closer look. (That said, the Railmaster lacks the Seamaster’s “fauxtina,” so some might prefer it on that basis; like you, however, I’m not bothered by it. And THAT said: I prefer the dial without the bezel, a la the Railmaster.
Shane Griffin
There’s certainly no need to apologize. However, if you’re going to talk value propositions, you’re going to need to outline your parameters, because they scratch two completely different itches. Do you want a watch with the best of modern technology, one that can go anywhere and do anything, and a four year warranty? Then the Master Co-Axial is the one for you. But, if you want a vintage watch that might appreciate in value, needs to be somewhat pampered, and at risk of being unfixable in 20 years, then go with a CK2913.
The original CK sport watches are amazing pieces, but they fit completely different parts of a collection. The point of the article wasn’t to say the new Master Co-Axial is superior in all ways to a CK2913, in fact, it was very far from that. The point of the article was to outline why I think it’s an instant classic in the dive watch category, up there with some of my other favorites.
Thanks for reading
-Shane
Tim
Just a quick comment – THANK YOU for putting your wrist size in the article. I hate when reviewers don’t mention it.
Hernan Welsh
I have this watch an I really think it has the whole package, it just would be better with a discrete date window IMO. I also think that the price for the SS version is just right for a daily use watch. Also, it’s James Bond’s watch!
Eric Miller
I have had this 300 SM since fall and I do love it. I must say that the esges of the case and bracelet are a bit sharp and when worn all day and night can be a bit irritating. It is not as comfortable at the GMT master II for long term wear (when you dont tak it off for a few days in a row). THis is a great watch and I think priced well. I was a bit surprised to see some come up online for at least 2 grand under what I paid for at the Omega authorized dealer. Oh well, either way it is a keeper
Ed Lee
Omega – Just announced James Bond Limited Edition Spectre 300M! Nato strap + Lollipop second hand + SS bracelet (all BRUSHED). I think this might the best JB watch yet as it subtle and not adorned with 007 all over the watch. I think Omega listened to you Shane (I saw your opinion article on the JB Ltd Edition Aqua Terra. At $7,500 US, do you think its worth it over the standard 300M that is reviewed above?
Shane Griffin
I hope you’re right that they listened! That would be pretty awesome. I literally told my idea to a product designer at Baselworld, so who knows.
$7,500 is a big premium, especially since it probably won’t get much discounting brand new. However, with 7,007 made, you should be able to find them on the forums from time to time below retail. I think it’ll take them a while to sell out, which will keep second hand pricing in check.
Ed Lee
I couldn’t help myself! I picked up the new Omega Seamaster 300 Limited Edition “Spectre”. It’s a beautiful watch 😉 I hope (and look forward) you will do a review on it soon! Love to hear what you think of it.
BTW – any recommendation best sites to get 21mm width straps? Both leather or NATO.
Shane Griffin
Congrats on the purchase! I’m not sure if we’ll get the opportunity to review this one, but I do like what they did. I usually lean towards Rover Haven for leather and just get them custom made. For NATOs, Crown and Buckle has a dozen or so in 21mm.
George Joannou
Hi Shane
Great article on a great watch. I need to get your advice on this watch as I am thinking of buying this modern take on a classic watch. Like a number of people I’m no big fan of the polished center links (too blingy) but having said that all the other positives will outweigh that negative. Anyway my question is this . Is the titanium bracelet more resilient to scratches than the stainless steel one ? I believe Omega use Titanium Grade 5. I also understand that the titanium watch comes at a hefty premium but if it is more scratch resistant then I am happy to outlay extra hard earned coin.
Regards
George Joannou.
Shane Griffin
Hi George,
Thanks for reading and commenting. My experience with the titanium SM300 is really just limited to handling it, so I can’t tell you for sure how the Ti will hold up over time. I have to imagine that those polished links will show scratches fairly easily, even if it’s a little bit more resistant than the steel. I would go for the new SPECTRE limited edition that comes with an all-brushed bracelet. I think that’s the best all around choice. However, in the end, I like all of them and you can’t go wrong.
Shane
George Joannou
Hi Shane
Thanks for your response. I took your advice and put down a deposit on the limited Spectre edition. Wow, what a great looking watch it comes in both a NATO strap and a brushed ss bracelet. In Sydney , Australia the Omega authorized dealers can’t get enough of these special edition puppies, I was lucky to secure this one through a Omega Boutique store and with any luck my watch will arrive before the new James Bond movie hits the screens in the first week of November. Looks like my trusty old Omega Seamaster with the sword hour and minute hands will have to play second fiddle to its new baby brother. BTW my old seamaster keeps incredibly accurate time (-1 second a day). The technology in the new one will blow the movement in my current watch out of the water. Nevertheless both watches are first class.
Cheers
George.
Shane Griffin
Nice! Congrats on the purchase. The tech in the new Seamasters is no doubt really great. However, the old caliber 1120s are hard to beat in terms of reliability and accuracy.
LJC
While this watch looks amazing, i’m in awe of the height. At 15mm, it’s one of the larger dress divers on the market. Its bigger than a Seiko MM300, which is often criticized for its height. I dont see how this is ‘just right’ for modern proportions. Seems excessive to me.
Andy Soul
This is my 5th week with the SM 300, & I wouldn’t find a better word to describe it than, as the review suggested, “an instant classic”.
There’s something about this watch that is so subtle that only an owner would feel it, which is the easy blending into your day to day wardrobe, adding only that little extra sharpness without overshadowing anyyhing else. I admire looking at as much as the first time I tried it on. The polished central link actually made appreciate a feature I always disliked in any watch.
The aged look of the markers further contributed to the versatility of this classic icon.
One of the main reasons, as purist, tgat made me choose the SM 300 over a “Sub C no date” was the fact that, once the watch is on your wrist, you equally enjoy Sub’s “timelessness”, yet you’re not looking at something that had grown so old on you that you miss most of the thrill… even before ownening it. The sheer & extreme familiarity of the typical Sub design is somehow abscent here, which in itself is very thrilling.
It’s an absolutely fresh peice to look at… yet it has all what it takes to make it a classic.
Andy
Andy
Oscar Burman
I am a “one watch guy” and been looking for a timeless piece (irony?) for a while. Was introduced to the 300 and fell in love. Bought it over a year ago and still love it. Best buy in this category ever. Pros: Classic look, feels really good on the wrist, everyday watch but still classy. Best looking watch I have seen yet! Biased? Hell yes! I own one:)
cons: not yet!