Montblanc had already shown they were ready for a big year when they announced the Obris Terrarum and the e-Strap, and they haven’t slowed down since SIHH has officially begun. Alongside the Quantième Annuel Vasco da Gama Limited Edition (which might end up in our “favorite watches of SIHH”), our other favorite is the Dual Time. The second timezone is one of our favorite complications in terms of usefulness, and here, Montblanc has executed it in very nice packaging. Introducing, the Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Dual Time.
If Montblanc set out to make a well-balanced second timezone watch that feels equally comfortable in dressy and casual settings, they scored here. Aesthetically, the Dual Time hits a lot of JLC Master Control notes, which isn’t surprising with Jerome Lambert at the helm. Sometimes parroting design cues from other brands can get you in trouble with watch nerds, but there’s too much to like here. I often prefer 3:00/6:00 subdial layouts, but since this isn’t a chronograph, the 12:00/6:00 really works. Utilizing the top-side subdial for a 24-hr day/night indicator, coupled with a big 12:00 marker is what gives the Dual Time a sporty label. Without that, you’d be limited to a fairly buttoned-up look.
Behind the dial, Montblanc added an in-house GMT module to a Selitta SW200. This is nothing new for Montblanc, as the aforementioned Orbis Terrarum also has an in-house module sitting atop a mass-produced movement. Taking this route is an excellent way to balance the value proposition. Again, the theme of balance is here, just as with the aesthetics. A fully in-house movement would probably push the price close, if not all the way, to a five-figure price tag. Instead, you end up with a watch containing actual horological effort for $4,500. What’s more, Montblanc has the case size nerds covered by putting this all together in a 41mm diameter case that’s just under 10mm thick.
I have a feeling “Montblanc is killing it lately” will be heard for quite some time. Former JLC CEO, Jerome Lambert, is charging full steam ahead with many of the concepts and designs we know and love about his former employer, and applying them to Montblanc. Go ahead and argue that they’re ripping design cues from elsewhere, but that’s been done to death by many other watchmakers and with far less watchmaking prowess to back it up. We love the value proposition Montblanc has been bringing to the table, and we hope it continues.
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