Having a Rolex as a Hall of Fame watch may seem a little obvious. What’s not so obvious is that this isn’t a Milsub, Bakelite GMT Master, COMEX Sea Dweller, Paul Newman Daytona, Steve McQueen Explorer II, or any of the references you might expect. It’s actually one of the more inexpensive and common references. This is the Rolex Submariner 14060 and 14060m. While the entire historical lineup of the Submariner is classic and iconic, there are several things that set the 14060 apart from the others and make it one of our Hall of Fame watches.
Introduced in 1990, the 14060 proved to be Rolex’s initial step into modern watch construction while still staying true to its vintage roots. The sapphire crystal, 300 meter water resistance, and triplock crown all showcase modern innovation and toughness, while the uncluttered 2-line dials maintain the old school feel. Rolex replaced the caliber 1520 found in the 5513 with the updated and higher beat caliber 3000. All of these features are housed in the perfectly proportioned classic Submariner case (with lug holes, of course). It also shares the lightweight and comfortable 93150 bracelet, end links, and clasp of its predecessor. The no-date dial is more balanced and clean than its “date” counterpart; the lack of the trademark Rolex cyclops also makes it more understated and less conspicuous. Early 14060 models had tritium, which adds to the vintage feel — some of these examples should be showing some patina by now. Did I mention the lug holes? Man, we love lug holes.
In 1999, Rolex transitioned from the 14060 to the upgraded 14060m. The 14060m had the same external features as its predecessor but with the updated caliber 3130. This new caliber was improved with a Breguet overcoil, as well as a full balance bridge which offered a greater degree of stability and shock resistance. If you’re looking for that extra bit of toughness and resiliency, you can’t go wrong with the 14060m. The fit and finish of the new references with their solid link bracelets and polished cases are superb, but we still enjoy the brushed 904L steel of the 14060 and the 14060m — it just seems to handle scratches and dings better. At around $4,000 depending on condition and accessories, it’s certainly a bargain when it comes to Rolex watches.
Many would say that Rolex lost something with the newer case of the SubC and we would agree. Don’t be fooled, the new references are great, but the classic size, proportions, and feel just aren’t there anymore. In 2007, Rolex changed the 2-line text to 4, adding the COSC labeling, and then later in 2012, moved away from the drilled-through lugs, which effectively signaled the end of the “classic” Rolex Submariner.
14060 — Photo courtesy of Ginault.com
The 5513 may be the archetypal vintage Rolex and the new SubC may have set the new standard for luxury and innovation, but if you want the last classic Sub with modern features, it’s the 14060. It’s at home with more vintage watches but has newer technology and can takes the bumps and bruises you wouldn’t want to put a vintage watch through. The 14060 is the perfect choice. It’s tough, simple, classic, and timeless; a true Wound For Life Hall of Fame watch.
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Matt
Great article as usual. Totally agree with what you have said. If you haven’t got 10k to blow on a vintage sub, the 14060M is the one!
Gordon
Really agree with this article. I have a 140460 myself and couldn’t be happier with the purchase. Tough enough for everyday and can go from a suit to jeans seamlessly. Also the value of the ref cannot be overstated especially if you can find either a 14060 with a nice patina or one that has Superluminova markers. Both will stand the test of time…
Shane Griffin
Thanks for reading, fellas. We love the 14060, and we’re not sure there’s a better value for 2nd hand Subs.
ck1109
Are you positive Rolex phased out the lug holes on the case of the 14060/14060m in 2003? If I remember correctly, I’ve seen a few M and V serial 14060m Subs for sale listed with lug holes on the case.
Shane Griffin
Great catch; correction made. We must have looked too quickly and mixed the 14060 up with the 16610. Thanks for watching closely! Lug holes disappeared in 2012 for the no date Sub.
Morten
Just curious: When you say the lug holes disappeared in 2012 for the no date sub, you mean with the introduction of the new Sub C models right? I have never seen a 14060M without lug holes, my own is from 2012 and have lug holes.
Neil Wood
Correct. The lug holes were eliminated with the introduction of the SubC
Björn
Thank you, this was a great article! I got a small collection of watches, and one of them is the 14060 non date sub. As you said it is the last of the classic Rolexes, and they are at great value at this moment! I use mine as a daily watch, at work, when I go fishing etc. I love it!
DollaBill
Great article. I could not agree more. These are destined to be future classics due to being the last of their more simple designs
Webalien
Thanks for the great review. Convinced me to buy a wonderful 14060 from 2005. Just love it! Worth the money. At times still looking for the date on the dial out of habit but then quickly shifting to other sources at hand (i.e. smartphone, computer screen). It may take two seconds more to realize which day it is, but no trade for the elegance of a clean, no-date dial.