Gerald Genta is arguably the greatest watch designer of all time. Having designed the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Bvlgari-Bvlgari, the Cartier Pasha de Cartier, and the IWC Ingenieur, his portfolio is undoubtedly iconic. Of all Gerald Genta’s designs, there is definitely one that stands out, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. While this watch is nothing short of terrific, the downside is that it’s often out of reach for most. But what if there was an alternative? What if this alternative was the original, and arguably more important, Bulova Royal Oak? Allegedly, there was, and if Genta designed the Royal Oak originally as a Bulova, it could very well be one of the watch industry’s best kept secrets.
1972 Royal Oak A Series
As the legend goes, Gerald Genta was working for Bulova in the late 60’s, and while working on some other projects there, he came up with an idea for a new watch. It would be classically designed, yet new and exciting at the same time — a truly daring concept. With this vision, he designed what was the original Royal Oak. After presenting his design to his superiors at Bulova, it was turned down and scrapped, much to his dismay. Genta then left Bulova and moved on to the Swiss brand, Audemars Piguet. There, they were enthusiastic and dazzled by his design and would go on to release it at the 1972 Basel Fair under the moniker “Royal Oak”. Bulova, taking notice of the Royal Oak’s success, released their nearly identical version later on in the 70’s.
This story can definitely get you excited. To think that one of Genta’s most important designs was originally meant for an American brand is quite amazing. That being said, at the end of the day it’s no more than a false, forum-fabricated myth, perpetuated by those selling examples of the watch. While Gerald Genta did actually work for Bulova at one point, he without a doubt designed the Royal Oak while working at Audemars Piguet. The true story is that after getting a call from the managing director at the time, Georges Golay, Genta was told that he was to design a high-end steel sports watch, and it needed to be completed by the following morning. With inspiration from the design of scaphander dive helmets, Genta fulfilled the task, and came up with the watch we now know and love today.
Genta’s Original Royal Oak Sketch
It’s also important to take note of the fact that Gerald Genta’s relationship with Audemars Piguet did not start with the Royal Oak. Prior to the iconic watch’s inception, Genta had been working with the brand for close to twenty years, since 1953. Over that time, he designed almost their entire collection. The next time you’re hunting a vintage Audemars Piguet, it’s a safe bet your search results will yield a host of Genta masterminded timepieces. As an aside, possibly the most interesting Genta “fun fact” is that the man preferred not to wear a watch; he was more interested in creating timepieces, and not so interested in wearing them.
In a day and age where horological knowledge is so readily available through the Internet, one must be diligent in separating fact from fiction. In this case, what might have started as an idealistic and somewhat misleading sales pitch has evolved over the years into becoming moderately believed. So when you’re browsing through sales threads, don’t be fooled. You haven’t stumbled upon a hidden grail, but merely an homage created by Bulova, to capitalize on the success of another brand’s design. Case closed, class dismissed.
Check out this excellent interview with the late Gerald Genta to hear some of this info straight from the man himself.
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John
Very informative. Glad I found this article — it just saved me from buying a Bulova “Royal Oak” that came with the forum-propagated mythology. Although a nice watch inspired by the Genta design, I’ll pass on the Bulova homage.
Skeptical
I am not convinced by your ‘argument’. All you have written is that bulova copied the watch and it was not an original design. Some on the forums state it was and that it was designed prior to its known development at AP.
Neither you nor the people claiming otherwise have given any real proof. Your story of Genta coming up with the design in one night upon being asked to is not really any proof. Even if we take it seriously then should we not consider the possibility that he had designed the concept earlier and hence it would have been easier for him to put it to paper and design in one night.
Shane Griffin
Did you read the linked interview? Genta himself tells the story:
“Would you like to recount for us how the
conception of the Royal Oak began?
‘One afternoon, at four o’clock, Mr. Georges
Golay, the Managing Director of Audemars
Piguet, rings me up and tells me: “Mr. Genta,
I need a steel sports watch that has never
been done before, I want it to be something
totally new and waterproof.” On my part, I
understood that what he was looking for
was a brand-new waterproofing technology.
“I want the design by tomorrow morning.” I
designed it overnight and my idea was to rep-
licate the system of the scaphander’s helmet
on the watch case. With the eight screws and
with the joint visible on the case’s exterior. So
I was given the ‘green light’ straight away to
begin work on the prototype. I completed the
prototype myself within a year. In 1970, I de-
signed the watch. And it took one more year
before industrial production, which finally
came about in 1972.’
Isaac Wingold
Trust me, I wanted to believe it too, but in the end there’s just about no evidence besides hopeful forum sales threads to support this theory. That said, the watch is still pretty cool.
Watchmaker
I can’t imagine why AP would allow Bulova to manufacture a copy of their now famous watch, and Genta does have history with Bulova. He has history with a lot of brands, but nevertheless, this seems to suggest that Genta had control over the design and allowed or licensed Bulova to make an homage or a copy, but why?
Shane Griffin
I think it just makes more sense to believe AP didn’t care enough to sue. If Genta allowed Bulova to use the design in some way, I don’t understand how that part of the story never got told straight from him. Why in the world wouldn’t Bulova have advertised the fact they were making it with Genta’s “okay”?
R. Phillips
What should have followed is a massive lawsuit, but this did not happen. We can only speculate as to why, and the most likely answer is Bulova had permission.
Eric Richmond
Watch designs cannot be trademarked for the most part. Look at all the Submariner look a likes.
http://nortonlawcorp.com/can-i-trademark-it/trademark-a-watch-design/